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East Africa Tailor Made: Mt. Meru & Kilimanjaro

Tour code: AMK
Revised: December 0
8

This tour combines trekking to the summits of the continent's highest and fifth highest peaks. We start with the beautiful ascent of Mt. Meru - an exceptional crater rim roller coaster warm up and acclimatisation trek for the big one - Kibo on Kilimanjaro.

Meru is a real gem of a mountain and is often ignored by trekkers who only seem intent on climbing Kili. Meru is the second highest mountain in Tanzania at 4,565 m. Our trek allows three days for the ascent, since it involves a 3,500 m altitude trek. On this you will be escorted by an armed park guard who will probably be carrying a pre First World War Lee Enfield rifle with the barrel lashed onto the stock by bicycle inner tubes! The trail winds through grass lands, rain forest, giant heathers and Hagiena Rose woods, all well stocked with wild animals. Then you enter the limited zone of Groundsels and Lobelias and climb the rubbly crater rim to the summit via Rhino Point. There are great views down to the subsidiary cinder cone on the crater floor and of course, across to Kilimanjaro, which is where you will be heading next!

Kilimanjaro at 5895m the ice jewelled Crown of Africa, stands proud of the Ambroseli plains, the easiest of the so called "Seven Summits." Nearly everyone who comes to East Africa at least dreams of standing on top of the peak even if they never even aim to climb it! The allure of the mountain has arisen from the time in the 1850s when the first Europeans saw it at a distance; many even believed some of the native rumours, and thought that the mountain was encrusted in salt or covered in silver. When explorers suggested that the white deposits might actually be snow and ice instead, even the Royal Geographical Society laughed. It seemed a contradiction in terms: How could you be standing so near to the equator and yet be standing in snow? Simple - "By being at nearly 20,000 feet!" The explorers replied.

Although global warming has meant that there is now a lot less ice around than there used to be even fifty years ago, the views from the top are quite stunning, not only because of the stepped glaciers, rose tinted in the morning sun, but also the distant views over Tanzania and Kenya, to Mount Meru, and the Serengeti volcanoes like Mt. Lengai; and sometimes even to Mt. Kenya on a very clear day.

Kilimanjaro is a very popular hike and a huge trekking industry has spawned from it, most of it concentrated on the Marangu Route. Sherpa, however, uses a much less frequented path called the Machame route, which although steeper in places than Marangu, is not particularly difficult and has the advantage of getting you away from the tourist hordes. It is also reckoned to be the most scenic route on the mountain.

The Set Up

This tour can be booked up for virtually any date that you want to travel (we advise against April to mid June due to the wet season ). As long as there are two or more of you, tell us the dates that you want and if you require flights, we will try to book up the appropriate airline for that date. KLM and Kenya Airways are more expensive than Ethiopian Airlines, but the latter too, is generally a good service. If we cannot get a seat on a flight for the departure date that you want, then we will look for the next best available date. Then all you need to do is get your gear together (list provided in our predeparture info), get a Tanzanian Visa, Yellow Fever jab and any others you may need and finally make sure that you have your travel insurance. Then all you have to make sure that you are fit enough to take on these big mountains and  then just enjoy the experience!


How the Trekking is Organised

On trek you should expect to carry a daypack containing your immediate needs.  Porters will carry the main luggage, food, and cooking and camping equipment. Accommodation whilst on trek is a mixture of multi-bedded huts (dormitory style) on Mount Meru and two person tents on Mount Kilimanjaro. Normally you will start fairly early and after breakfast the porters scurry on ahead very rapidly (they are well acclimatised!). You will be given a packed lunch and then you will walk with your guide to the next location, where the tent should already be erected. You then will usually be given soft drinks followed by the main cooked meal. People normally retire at dusk after the guide has explained what will happen the following day.


Grade: Challenging Plus

This trek encounters considerable extremes of both altitude and climate and is thus graded Challenging Plus. Many people who attempt Kilimanjaro & Meru fail to reach the summits due either to lack of physical preparation or because they cannot adapt quickly enough to the altitude. This 13 day tour with the ascent of Meru before Kili, should give you sufficient acclimatisation to avoid the more serious effects of altitude. However, as on any high altitude trek, there can be no guarantee that you will have no acclimatisation problems.  If you experience adverse effects to altitude, you will have to descend and remain at a lower altitude until you acclimatise. In the interests of safety and your well being, you should talk to the guide if you are feeling poorly. This trek is most likely to be enjoyed by those who already have had some high mountain walking experience.


Climate

Weather in the high mountains is never totally predictable and East Africa is no exception especially as it has two wet and two dry seasons per year. The best seasons are mid December - February and mid June to September. You can do this tour anytime of year, but we would advise against April to mid June, as this is the period of Long Rains. The nights on trek will be cool to cold (below freezing higher on the mountains) and days cool to warm. On summit days a very early start can be expected and although this is steep on Kilimanjaro, the traverse between Stella point and the actual summit of Uhuru peak is exposed to winds, which are below freezing, often –10 to –25 with wind chill. So good warm walking gear is essential. Driving up towards Meru / Kilimanjaro across the plains and  in the game parks it can be quite hot (up in the 30s C).


Our Base

Our safaris and mountain climbs in Northern Tanzania are based at our hotel near Moshi. This is a small modern, family-run hotel located just outside of town. It has pleasant gardens, fine views of Kilimanjaro and a covered dining area in the gardens. There is also an indoor restaurant and small bar. En-suite accommodation is available in the main building with showers, mosquito mesh in the windows, fans and very clean bore-hole water. A large swimming pool has been recently completed together with a new dining area. If you have some spare time in the hotel we recommend a morning guided walk in the nearby forests where there are many troops of monkeys to be seen including Vervets and the less common black and white colobus monkey. A wide variety of bird life is also to be seen on this walk.

Before you arrive all transport, guides, porters, huts or camping, and all food necessary for your climb or safari are arranged by the hotel and are inclusive in the cost. The hotel staff will brief you before you depart for your trip. All that remains for you to do is to enjoy it!


Equipment & Clothing

All communal camping and cooking equipment is provided.   Each person must provide their own sleeping bag (suitable for 3- 4 seasons use) and personal equipment. This should be of high quality, especially the sleeping bag, warm clothing and boots (plastic boots, crampons and Ice axe are not required under normal conditions, but walking poles will be useful and there is no harm in bringing a walking ice axe if you have one, but it will normally be of limited use). A detailed list of recommended clothing and equipment will be sent to each member shortly after confirmation of booking.


What’s Included

All road transportation as specified in the itinerary. Bed and breakfast accommodation at Springlands; all meals when on trek; Park, hut and rescue fees, services of guides, cook and porters, when out on trek. (The brochure price is based on a land only package, however we can arrange return flights, the price of which will vary depending on the airline and the season involved).


Not Included

Drinks, bottled water, clothing or hire of any equipment, tips, personal toiletry requirements, insurance and all items of a personal nature; passport, insurance, visas, immunisation fees, airport taxes (allow $30).

Tipping: Porters and guides on Meru and Kilimanjaro see tipping as a very important part of their income. Although we admit that this situation can be awkward, especially if you do not come from a tipping environment, it has become part of the culture and can lead to awkward scenes if too little is paid. Part of the problem has been expectation fuelled by the excessive one off tips given by some walkers filled with euphoria having completed the climb! Tipping is at your discretion, but the advice is currently $10 (US) per day for each porter per group and more for the guide + cook, about $15 per day. This may seem excessive, but it is not too bad especially if the staff have done a good job. You will have at least the satisfaction of seeing the money hopefully going into the local economy. Most of the porters especially will have ‘shambas’, or small peasant holdings, where they will farm during the low season, or when illness or other reasons keeps them away from the mountain. It is sobering to realise that although some of the guides do quite well out of the industry (as long as their health holds) most of the porters do not earn a cash income for long periods during the year and although if they have ‘Shambas’ they will be self sufficient to a degree, life is still hard!


Health Matters & Documents

You should carry a reasonably comprehensive medical kit with you, as the First Aid supplies on the mountains may be limited. We don’t mean things like traction splints, but basic dressings (including burns dressing), Asprin, Ibuprufin, antihistamine, antiseptic cream, skin closures, Iodine Tincture solution and your Malaria tablets. You do need to have a valid certificate of vaccination for Yellow Fever.

Visas: For Tanzania British citizens need a visa bought before departure from the Tanzanian Embassy for £38 (single entry), details in Pre departure information. Other nationalities should check.

Passport: should be valid for at least 6 months from the date of entry.


Books & Maps

Lonely Planet guide to ‘’Trekking in East Africa,” by David Else. A well researched, well written book, which includes a wealth of practical information on walking in E. Africa including topographical maps and plenty of background information on the countries.  Highly recommended.

           
“East African International Mountain Guide”, by A. Wielochowski. Though the emphasis is on climbing, this authoritative guidebook contains valuable information for trekkers. 

“East Africa”, by J.R.Yogerst. An excellent overall guide from Lonely Planet.

There is also the Climbers  “Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro,” by Ian Allen, which contains notes on the walks as well as climbing. This is a neat little momento being pocket sized with a weather resistant cover. This is printed by the Mountain Club Of Kenya.

You can also purchase the best map of Kilimanjaro, originally by Andrew Wielochowski: Tel: 01550-721319. It costs approx £8 including postage and packing.

Outline Itinerary

This itinerary is intended as a working guide only and may be subject to variation as a result of local conditions, weather and group progress. 

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) any trek at any time.

q       Day 1: Departure from London Heathrow for Kilimanjaro Airport, Tanzania. Flight times vary depending on the operator. We use mainly KLM or Kenya Airways.

Daily:  Dep: Heathrow: 06:35 Arr: Kili 20.00.

We also use Ethiopian Airways (flight arrives next day)

Arrival at Kilimanjaro International airport and transfer over to our hotel base near Moshi. There is a pool, restaurant, bar and there are some woodland walks nearby  - if you are not too tired.

q       Day 2: Momella Gate to Miriakamba Hut (10km, 4-5 hours, 700 metres approx. ascent) Transfer to the Arusha National Park.  This consists of two main areas, the Ngurdoto Crater and Momella Lakes on the east side, and Mt Meru in the west, joined by a narrow strip of land. Momella Gate (2100m), the start of the trek, is in this strip. At the park gate you undergo all the various formalities of signing in and hitching up with the armed guide. Have your binoculars ready on your walk from Momella Gate to Miriakamba Hut. Today there is potentially a lot of wildlife viewing: buffalo, waterbuck, gazelles, zebra and a few elephant, bird life too is excellent. Two routes are available from Momella gate. The first is a track that goes through the forest towards the crater floor, and then steeply up to Miriakamba Hut with a possible diversion onto the crater floor. The second is a path that climbs gradually through the grassland, along the lower section of the northern spur of the crater, direct to the hut. The hut is a basic timber structure in a very picturesque setting amongst the Hagiena  - Rose wood trees with views heading up Meru.

Miriakamba Hut (2514 metres) consists of two large bunkhouses each with room for about 40 people. They contain bunk beds (most with mattresses) and a separate room to be used as a kitchen, although no cooking equipment is provided your cook will bring it in. There are toilets, and a good supply of water.

q       Day 3: Miriakamba Hut to Saddle Hut (4 km, 2-3 hours, 1050 metres ascent). The path climbs steeply up between the trees reaching Topela Mbogo (Buffalo swamp) after 45 minutes and Mgongo Wa Tembo (Elephant ridge) after another half an hour. There is a story that elephants slide down through the grasses and heathers directly down from the crater rim to the floor below. This may sound far fetched, but you do sometimes find their “shutes” of parted vegetation dropping improbably steeply into the crater. From the top of Elephant ridge there are great views down into the crater and up to the main cliffs below the summit. Continue up the path to Saddle Hut on a wide col between the slopes of Meru and the smaller peak of Little Meru.

Saddle Hut: (3750 m) Consists of an old metal hut, used by the caretaker, and a newer bunkhouse similar to the ones at Miriakamba. There is a toilet and water is available from a stream 10 minutes away.

q       Day 4: Saddle Hut to Meru Summit and Return to Moshi. (5 km, 4-5 hours, 1000 metres ascent, plus 5 hours, 2500 metres descent). A big day! Leave Saddle Hut very early in the morning aiming to reach the summit in time to see the sun rising from behind Kilimanjaro. The walk up to the summit, along a very narrow ridge between the sloping outer wall to the crater and the sheer cliffs of the inner wall, is not for the faint hearted. If the sunrise is your main point of interest, there’s no need to go to the top. It’s just as impressive from Rhino point (about an hour from Saddle Hut), or ever more so because you also see the main cliffs of the inner wall of the crater slowly being illuminated by the rising sun. Even though it can be below freezing just before dawn, as soon as the sun comes up the going becomes hot and hard. However during the rainy season, ice and snow can occur on this section of the route. From Rhino Point the path drops slightly then rises again to climb steeply round the edge of the rim over ash scree and bare rock patches. Continue for three to four hours to reach the summit (4566 metres). To the west, if it’s clear, you can see towards the Rift Valley, and the volcanoes of Kitumbeini and Lengai, while down below you can see the town of Arusha, and the plains of the Maasai Steppe beyond. To descend from the summit, we retrace the route round the rim, back to Saddle Hut (two to three hours) and then drop down to the Momella gate where we are collected and transferred back to the hotel near Moshi.

q       Day 5: Rest Day at hotel. Spend a relaxing day by the pool or have a stroll around. In the forests nearby you can go out and observe Vervet and Colobus monkeys. Overnight at hotel.

q       Day 6: Kilimanjaro. Hopefully now you have some acclimatisation. After breakfast we undertake a 45 min drive through to Machame village and then on to the National Park Gate. Park formalities dispensed with, it is about 5 hours walking today. Porters will be seen arranging their packs containing food, water, firewood and other equipment. Make sure you have all your day pack items with you because the porters travel fast and you probably won’t see them again before the evening! The guides will assist with any additional information that you need. From the park gate there is a wonderful walk up through the rain forest on a winding trail to the first hut, which is located at 3048 m.  Continue onto the Machame hut, where we make camp, rest, enjoy our dinner and overnight (3100 m). 

q       Day 7: After breakfast we leave the last of the Rain Forest behind and ascend, walking along a steep rocky ridge covered with heather, to the ridge end. We then turn west into a river gorge and onto the Shira Hut camp site, dinner and camp.(3840m, about 4 hours walking).

q       Day 8: From the Shira Plateau we continue to the East then our direction changes to South East towards the lava tower, called ‘The Sharks Tooth’ and shortly after the tower we come to a junction, which brings us up below the arrow glacier. We reach an altitude of 4876 m. But to aid acclimatisation we now continue down to the Barranco hut at an altitude of (3950 m). Here we rest, dine and camp. (About 6 hours walking)

q       Day 9: After breakfast we leave the Barranco hut and continue on a steep ridge passing the Barranco wall and walk through the Karanga valley past the junction, which connects with the Mweka trail. We continue to the Barafu hut, which is located at an altitude of (4600 m). Here we make camp, rest, enjoy dinner and overnight. (About 8 hours walking) 

q       Day 10: Top Out!! (around 11 hours walking for some people, the hardest day) Early morning start to make the most of walking steeply over frozen volcanic screes. And to get you to the summit for the sunrise; we continue our ascent to Stella Point (5745 m) between the Rebmann and Ratzal glaciers. The last section before the rim can sometimes be snow-covered and walking poles or an ice axe are useful for balance. We then skirt around the broad crater rim on our way to the summit (Uhuru Peak 5895 m, this part of the climb takes about 6 hours). We have now reached the highest point in Africa, giving fine views of Kilimanjaro’s crater, its stepped glaciers and Mount Meru. Mount Kenya may appear as a black pimple far to the north. From the summit we now make our descent continuing straight down to the Mweka hut camp site (3100 m). This part of the descent takes about 5 hours. Later in the evening we have our last dinner on the mountain and a well-earned sleep.

q       Day 11: After breakfast continue the descent down to the Mweka Park gate, rendezvous with vehicle and then drive back to Moshi and transfer to the hotel. Night and celebratory evening meal at the hotel.

q       Day 12: After Breakfast or lunch (depending on the time of flight departure) transfer to Kilimanjaro International Airport for departure.

q       Day 13: Arrive London Heathrow.

 

Safari Extension

After the two great peaks of Tanzania there is the opportunity of a wildlife safari tour extension. Here there is the possibility of viewing the big five and many other species. Ask for Dossier AMT

 

   
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