A SAUNTER IN SARDINIA
Walking in Sardinia
 Sardinia
is an inspirational island of natural beauty and a mix of Italian and
Spanish cultures. Walking from the black mountains of Montiferru to the
Sinis wetlands you will discover beaches, bays, headlands, ancient ruins
and historical sites along the way. This is a gentle walk crossing a
variety of terrain and home to much bird life especially in the spring.
We
start with a couple of nights high in the Montiferru mountains, a basaltic
area famous for green forests, clear spring water and local ‘red’ beef.
Our base is amongst the centuries old narrow streets of Santulussurgiu,
which wrap around the head of the valley and descend the steep hillside.
From this mass of winding streets a short day walk takes you to the springs
of S. Leonardo and back to our rather special accommodation and dining in
Santulussurgiu where the date above the door reads 1837, the date of
renovation not construction. The longest day walk takes you all the way
from the top of the mountains to the coast; it is nearly all downhill. This
is a day of sweeping views and a sense of accomplishment as you end the day
overlooking the bay of Santa Caterina di Pittinuri where you can sit by the
pool with a well deserved drink and watch the sunset turn the cliffs to
shades of yellow and pink. There follows a free morning in Santa Caterina or walk to the
nearby beach at S’Archittu and a swim through the rock arch. At midday
you are transported to walk past the ‘Is Benas’ lagoon home to large
colonies of Grey Herons and pink Flamingos. A beautiful cliff top walk
leads us to the beach of Su Pallosu and on to the cliffs leading to ‘Capo
Mannu’, the lighthouse and ancient Spanish watchtowers. Then stroll into
Putzu Idu, a village popular with sailors and the surfing fraternity..
Next
day starts with a short transfer to the cliffs at Su Tingiosu home to plenty of bird life in
the spring, especially where the cliffs end at the beautiful quartz beaches
of ‘Is Aruttas’ and ‘Mari Ermi’. Here the white sand comprises of
rice-sized grains of quartz. Heading inland, crossing low hills of arable
land, you arrive in San Salvatore Sinis, populated for just one week a year
for a religious festival at its church. The village is reminiscent of a
deserted spaghetti western set. A nearby hotel with a fine restaurant is
home for two nights and our starting point for a loop to the ancient ruins
of Tharros and Capo S. Marco. Not far to walk but much of interest, and a
choice of restaurants to fill the day. The site of Tharros has evidence of
occupation from the 8th century BC through to the 10th century AD, by Phoenicians, Punics and Romans.
From San Salvatore
we walk to Cabras, the main town in the Sinis, the natural reserve here is
home
to thousands of pink flamingos and a wealth of other bird life. The route
crosses artichoke fields, Vernaccia vineyards, olive groves and the Cabras
Lagoon, famous for grey mullets and its ‘Bottarga’, the cured mullet
roe. In the afternoon you can walk a loop from Cabras cross the ‘Pauli
‘e Sali’ swamp, a protected area where an immense number of birds
usually nest.
Accommodation
7 nights/8 days - Nights 1 & 2 in Santulussurgiu we stay in a
3* 17th century mansion of Spanish design that is full of character and
has a kitchen that provides
wonderful traditional food from the best local produce. Night 3. Our 4* hotel is high on a cliff with
views across the bay and a pool. It is a very quiet area and the hotel food is
excellent and served on a terrace/restaurant overlooking the sea. Night 4 will be spent
in a 3* hotel in Putzu Idu located as close as you can be to the white
sand beach. Nights 5 & 6 close to San Salvatore Sinis where our
good 3* hotel’s ‘U’ shaped layout resembles a Spanish hacienda with rooms surrounding a garden in the central courtyard.
Night 7 in the village of Cabras in the Sinis wetlands, our hotel is
another good 3* establishment that is decorated in the traditional style and the owners also run the nearby restaurant which is renowned among locals for its genuine Sardinian cuisine.
Sherpa Notes
Accommodation &
Meals
Bed and breakfast throughout using small family run
hotels and one agritourismo,
all accommodation is ensuite.
Way Marks
It is necessary to follow the route descriptions provided together with the maps.
Travel
via Air: The best option is low cost airline flights to Cagliari then bus/taxi combination to get to Santulussurgiu and return from
Cabras.
Easyjet from London to Cagliari, or alternatively Ryanair from London
Stansted to Alghero.
Private Transfers also possible (prices approximate per person): Cagliari - Santulussurgiu €75, Alghero - Santulussurgiu €65, Cabras - Cagliari €65, Cabras - Alghero: €80.
|
