Legend has it that the martyred body of the apostle St. James was
transported from Palestine to the Atlantic coast of Spain for burial. By
the 10th century St. James was regarded as the protector of Christian
Europe against the Moslem Moors. The church built on his grave at
Compostela in Galicia, became a ‘Mecca’ for pilgrims who walked there
from France along the ‘Camino de Santiago’. Our section of the
historic route takes us into deepest France and the wonderfully remote
countryside of the Massif Central.
Within France, by
the 12th century, there were four different routes for pilgrims on the ‘Chemin
de St. Jacques’. Of the four, the earliest recorded and the best
preserved is that which starts at Le Puy on the headwaters of the Loire
and crosses the Massif Central from northeast to southwest on its way to
Aquitaine and the Pyrenees.
We too start at Le
Puy, a fascinating town set among the volcanic plugs of Velay. We follow
the GR65 trail over the pastoral basaltic plateau of Deves and across the
wooded gorges of the Margeride at the headwaters of the Allier. The way
continues along traditional ‘drailles’ over the almost treeless
plateau of the Aubrac.
From the Aubrac we
descend the winding gorges of the Lot, one of the great rivers which flows
from the Massif Central to the plains of Aquitaine. Our pilgrimage ends at
Conques, an unspoilt medieval town and in the words of the writer Hal
Bishop: ‘splendidly situated halfway up a hill between the gorges of the
Dourdon and l’Ouche’. The narrow streets of Conques still cluster
round the magnificent Abbey church of St. Foy, built astride the trail in
the 11th century.
In place of the
medieval pilgrim hospices which sprang up along the way, we stay at a
succession of delightful small hotels and auberges. The food, which
reflects the best of local produce, has also received high praise.
11
nights/12 days - Arriving in Le Puy we stay at an
elegant, centrally located 2* hotel. At St Privat we stay in
a simple 1* country hotel. The 2* hotel in Sauges, which is
the traditional meeting point for the Auvergne pilgrims, has been
serving good regional food to pilgrims for 150 years. Hotels in Les
Faux and Aumont (2*) are typically French provincial with
a good standard of facilities. At Nasbinals we stay at an 2*
hotel in the centre of town behind the church. Our 2* hotel in St
Chely is right next door to the 11th century church and our
small ‘chambre d’hote’ guesthouse at St. Come d’Olt
will give you a warm welcome. In pretty Estaing (2*) we are
by the old bridge, with a riverside terrace, and old wooden beams
all around. At Espeyrac (1*) , we stay in the centre of the
village. The last night is in Conques (1*), famous for its
11th century Abbey Church.
Sherpa Notes
Waymarking
The route is well waymarked with red and white signs.
Accommodation
and Meals Dinner, bed and breakfast throughout in small country hotels. Private bathroom facilities are not always available.
Start
and End of Tour
Nearest airport is Lyon then train to Le Puy. Bus from Conques to Rodez, train to Paris for
return flight.
