Click here to download this dossier in PDF format   Download Dossier
Click here to have this dossier emailed to you in PDF format   Dossier by Email

France: The Way of St. James

Tour code: JPT
Revised:  October 201
1

This was one of our original hotel treks and has been a consistently popular tour over the past twenty years for those who love rural France and wish to visit some of its more unusual, less visited landscapes.  The route covers a large swathe of the uplands of the Massif Central taking a path that the early Pilgrims walked on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain - one of the great journeys of history.  Obviously this is just a 200km section of that 1700 km route. It goes up and down valley through some of the marvellous remote bucolic countryside of the Massif Central, including the plateau of the Aubrac, with its amazing drystone walls that resemble parts of the Yorkshire Dales, then there is the valley of the Lot and the green hills of the Aveyron. In spring the fields are festooned with a tapestry of flowers including Alpine varieties. This is a walk in deepest France, for those who really want a bit of peace and quiet away from it all, a flavour of the past with a dose of religious history and the echoes of The Hundred Year War. The accommodation in some cases is fairly simple - one and two star hotels, reflecting the nature of the country we are traveling through, but if two words aptly describe this route it would be rustic and charming. There is also the sense of achievement that comes with completing a Grande Randonnee, in this case the GR65.

Travel Information

Season: May to October, uncrowded and usually not too hot in the summer.

First Hotel: Hotel Bristol, Le Puy, on the afternoon/early evening of Day 1.

Full Package: If you are thinking about our flight inclusive package we use British Airways scheduled flights from London Heathrow to Lyon, and then onward travel by train to Le Puy (see below under ’Nearest Airport’).

Flights to Paris are also available from most UK regional airports with onward connection to Lyon by air or TGV high-speed train. There is now a direct TGV train service from Paris Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport to Lyon. There is also the Eurostar Rail Service from St Pancras via Channel Tunnel and Paris.

Nearest Airport: Lyon (for  full package customers). You should take a morning flight. On arrival take the Rhone Express Train to Lyon Part Dieu station (not Perrache station), which takes 30 minutes. The best train to aim for has been the TGV at around  14:58, which will get you to St Etienne Chateaucreux at 15:41, where you change for Le Puy departing at 15:54 arriving at 17:14.  Please check times before travelling. These rail tickets are included in the Air and Rail Travel package. You will receive up-to-date train times for your date of travel, or alternatively you can visit the French railway's website at www.sncf.com.

Alternative airport: Paris. There is a TGV rail station at Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) airport, so there is no longer any necessity to travel into Paris. The most suitable train departs at around 13:01 and arrives in Lyon at 15:01. You change trains for St Etienne- Chateaucreux departing at 16:21 and arriving at 17:08. Change again for Le Puy departing 17:13 arriving at 18:31. (Please check times before travelling).

By Rail:   Eurostar rail service from St Pancras via the Channel Tunnel to Paris and Paris to Le Puy. www.sncf.com

End of Tour:  In Conques on day 12. Travel to Rodez by bus (no service on Saturday or Sundays) and then daily non-TGV train. For Example: dep. 11.46, arr. Paris Austerlitz 18.51.  Or on any weekday and Saturday, taxi to St. Christophe, and non-TGV train to Paris Austerlitz dep. 06.33, arr. Paris 16.05.

If you have driven down, our ground operator can organize for a car to take you back to Le Puy, the journey takes about 4.5 hours and costs around 50 euros per person. This has to be booked in advance.

If you are organizing your own transport, you could also fly with Ryan Air from Rodez-Marcillac Airport, about 12 km outside Rodez.  There are no rail or bus connections to the airport, so you will either have to take the morning bus to Rodez (7E) then taxi to the airport (approx 35E) or take a taxi all the way from Conques (approx 85E).


Level of Difficulty

Fitness:  A moderate to strenuous graded trek that anyone with a reasonable degree of walking experience and current reasonable state of fitness should cope with.  The relatively high grade reflects the length of some of the day stages and the nature of the terrain.

Day stages:  Approximately 14 to 27 km per day with average altitude gains of 600m. This is about 5 to 8 hours of walking.

Waymarking: The route is well marked with red and white GR waymarks and 'Chemin de St Jacques' scallop shell signs.


Accommodation & Meals

Evening meal, bed and breakfast are included throughout the tour. Two star hotels offer en suite facilities.  One star hotels do not always have en suite facilities. Luggage is transferred between hotels every day.

q       Night 1: Le Puy.   2 star. This elegant and well equipped hotel is centrally situated a short walk from the train station. All rooms have en suite facilities, telephone and T.V.

q       Night  2: St Privat d’Allier.  1 star a medium-sized Logis de France listed hotel (30 rooms) in this quiet village of 200 inhabitants.  Rooms are a bit basic but there is a lovely old restaurant with green lentils the local speciality.

q       Night 3: Saugues.  2 star Logis de France small hotel (17 rooms) with a restful atmosphere and a shaded terrace.  TV and phone in rooms.  When visited it had an excellent restaurant and a most friendly service.

q       Night 4: Les Faux. Another small village hotel with 13 rooms about 1km off the route. The rooms have either a bath or shower and W.C. A couple of rooms however have shared facilities.  Set in the quiet picturesque hilly area over the River Limagnole.  It is nice to sit with a beer in the garden overlooking a pond.

q       Night 5:  Aumont. 2 star small hotel in the centre of the town. The rooms have either a bath or shower and W.C. as well as T.V. and telephone.  Nice restaurant!

q       Night 6: Nasbinals. 2 star a hotel in the centre of the village, close to the church.  You may be moved to a hotel 500 metres away but will eat at the central hotel in communal style with other walkers.

q       Night 7:  St Chely d’Aubrac, 2 star. A small hotel with comfortable rooms in the centre of a small village run by a young couple.  The restaurant offers regional specialities.

q       Night 8:  St Come d’Olt. Refurbished convent with ensuite rooms (shower/wc) located at 200m from the village or guesthouse (Chambre d’hote) a 19th century Aveyronnaise house located in the entrance of Saint-Come d’Olt. If we cannot get you in here, you will need to walk on a few kms to Espalion where you will stay in a pleasant ‘fin de siecle’ town hotel with a great restaurant. 

q       Night 9:  Estaing. 2 star standard.  The Logis de France hotel is tucked into the narrow space between the river Lot and the castle. It has 40 comfortable rooms with all modern conveniences.  The large dining room has a fine stone fireplace in which the chef cooks a range of regional specialities.  It is one of the most beautiful villages of France.

q       Night 10:  Golinhac.  Basic hotel with a restaurant in the small village of Golinhac and located on the GR (grande randonnee path).

q       Night 11:  Conques. The hotel we normally use is a 2 stars, 11 bedroom hotel. The building has mediaeval origins and so rooms may have low beams, etc. It is situated in the centre of the village and some of the rooms have views across the belfry of St Foys. There is an excellent restaurant in which to celebrate your completion of the tour. If this particular accommodation is fully booked, you will be in a guest house located in the lower part of village by the beautiful Romanesque bridge.


General Information

Hotels: The hotels described are our usual choice of accommodation, however if these are not available then alternatives are used and if these are of a different standard you will be informed at the time of booking.

Baths/showers: Many rooms with ensuite/private facilities have a shower rather than a bath, usually because of limited space. Some hotels/guesthouses may however have a separate room in the house where a bath is available to guests.

Breakfast: In France is continental: coffee/tea and bread/toast/croissant. Sometimes you will also have fruit juice, yoghurt and maybe even cheese. If you want more for breakfast then we would suggest you purchase some food the night before. It is important for you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.

Lunches: Either get supplies in the villages you pass through or the hotel can normally prepare something. Occasionally there are places enroute with cafes patisseries etc.

Dinners: These are normally set meals. Some hotels will offer a limited choice, quite often though a plate of food will just come along and it will often be a regional dish. Please let the hotel know as soon as you arrive if you have peculiar dietary requirements. We do inform them at the time of booking, but this may not be remembered. 

Special Dietary Requirements: It is important for you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.

Single Supplements: are payable on most of our tours.  The single supplement guarantees the privacy of your own room, however, rooms can at times be small and in some places may not enjoy the same facilities as double/twin rooms. 

Solo Traveller Supplements: are payable when the cost per bag of moving luggage increases.

Language: When travelling in less frequented areas you will not necessarily come across people speaking English. Remember you are experiencing a different culture, buy a phrase book and try to learn a little of the local language!

Luggage: When staying in hotels, sometimes your luggage will have been taken to you room awaiting your arrival. However don’t be surprised if your luggage is waiting for you to take it up to your room. Please politely ask someone if you need assistance.

Route Notes: Please note that one set of route notes per room booked is included in the cost of the holiday. If you require more sets of notes then there is a charge of £25 per set ordered.
Route notes are not issued to clients booking escorted departures.

Insurance: All clients must have appropriate cover for the activities included for the duration of our trip.


Outline Itinerary

q       Day  1:  Arrive Le Puy.  Hopefully you will have enough time to look around some of the sites or this could be saved for tomorrow morning if you manage your time well.  Le Puy Cathedral is a beauty and has a history of pilgrimage dating back to the 9th century.  There is also the pretty St Michel d'Aiguilhe sitting on its volcanic plug with its beautiful chapel and at its foot the little Romanesque Chapelle St Claire which was originally part of a pilgrim's hospital.  Le Puy is famous for its lace and green lentils which can be purchased in the town.

q       Day  2:  Le Puy to St Privat d’Allier 23.5 kms.  We climb out of Le Puy onto a plateau and overlook a winding ravine type valley. We pass through black basalt villages like La Roche, then cross a watershed to reach St Privat, perched above the Allier gorge with its much modified castle dating from the Hundred Years War.

q       Day  3:  St Privat d’Allier to Saugues 19 kms.  Much of the day is spent crossing the valley of the River Allier; we start with a level walk to Rochegude, where the Saint Jacques chapel dominates the Allier pass, providing beautiful views.  We descend to the river at Monistrol (Romanesque church) and climb steeply up the other side past some striking geological formations.  Easy tracks across an agrarian and forest plateau at about 1000 metres take us to Sauges, meeting-point for all pilgrims coming from the Auvergne.  This town features in the history of the Hundred Years war and in the 1700s as a marshalling point for hunters of the giant man eating wolves that terrorized the region for a few years.

q       Day  4:  Saugues to les Faux. 27.5 kms.  We stick closely to the route the pilgrims took as we start off through the tiny hamlet of Pinet where many of the pilgrims stayed.  We gradually climb up the valley and follow the Villange River upstream to Clauze with its ancient tower impossibly still clinging to a boulder - the remains of a 12th century castle.  Our walk is long but not steep through wooded landscapes, moors of broom pine woods and meadows enclosed by granites posts.  We head off into forests and around a huge estate called Le Sauvage with its massive solid stone barns, ramps and court yard.  Interesting damed ponds kept water supplied to the place.  On the way on we pass the pilgrim's chapel at St Roch, before detouring off the GR route to a pleasant rural stay at Les Faux.

q       Day  5: Les Faux to Aumont. 21 kms. We eventually arrive in the village of St Alban with its Romanesque church dating back to the 11th century and interesting chateau which has been partially restored.. We climb upwards for a couple of hours, into rolling bucolic landscapes, enjoying the views of St Alban and the lush Limagnole Valley.  Eventually we emerge on to the Margeride plateau at around 900 metres, before descending down to Aumont.  It is a pleasant market town with a beautiful church.  A fine little town - one of those delightful undiscovered parts of France.

q       Day  6:  Aumont to Nasbinals. 26 kms.  Our walk starts off through the small town with its 16th and 17th century houses, until we join a forest path.  We pass through the villages of La Chaze and Lasbros and we start to cross the vast and remote plateau of Aubrac.  This is a desolate region of wild flowers, dry stone walls, largely treeless and empty of people.  Part of the route here follows Agrippa's old Roman road.  Our route takes us through tiny hamlets and farmsteads crossings streams over ancient granite bridges, past huge granite boulders and piles  until we arrive at Nasbinals, a transhumance village with a beautiful church.  May time is fantastic for the flowers in the fields including large stands of narcissus and orchids in damper niches.

q       Day  7: Nasbinals to St Chely d’Aubrac. 17 kms.  An exhilarating day, much of it on open hillsides and grassy drove roads, reaching 1368 metres - the highest point of the tour.  We pass through the great transhumance centre of Aubrac (church of 1220 and Tour des Anglais).  There is a new interpretation centre here and a fantastic inn, an ideal place to take refuge if it is cold, where huge slices of fruit flan are served for a few Euros!  After Aubrac you drop steeply past the ruins of Knights Templar Belvezet caste to pretty St Chely in its secluded valley.

q       Day  8:  St Chely d’Aubrac to St Come d'Olt. 16kms.  We contour along beech-clad slops onto an open ridge, and then descend through chestnut woods to the 'Cancels' stream crossing a few little bridges to ascend suddenly steeply to the hamlet of La Roziere.  There is a bit more undulation until finally you descend to St Come d'Olt, with its mediaeval gateways and twisted church spire.  This is a pretty little walled village, very much part of the original Way of St James, and has a great patisserie.  (Possibly you will have to walk a further 6 kilometres onto Espalion if we cannot get you in here).

q       Day  9: St Come d'Olt to Estaing 17 kms.  Leave St Come with good views across the Lot back to the village.  Really it feels as if you are leaving the Massif Central region and into more productive farmlands from now on.  The route then splits with a higher or lower route to the important market town of Espalion, perhaps too early for lunch but there are plenty of places for coffee and time to admire the old arched bridge dating from the 13th century, the regal houses and the 16th century turreted chateau overlooking the River Lot.  Continuing on we pass the exquisite little chapel at the picturesque hamlet called Bessuejouls which has a concealed upper chapel in the belfry.  There follows quite a muddy section climbing through oak woods to a ridge path with extensive views over the Lot Valley, and then pass between vines and tobacco fileds to reach Estaing.  Estaing has preserved vividly the memory of the passage of pilgrims to Compostela.  The famous festival of St Fleuret is held yearly on the first Sunday in July, during which hundreds of costumed people follow a procession to commemorate Saint Jacques and other pilgrims.  An imposing castle dominates the town and is gradually being restored for the public.

q       Day 10: Estaing to Golinhac. 16 kms. After a short stint along the banks of the Lot, we climb up to the Campeux plateau.  We continue along the left bank of the Lot until Rouquette and then through beautiful villages to the tiny hilltop village of Golinhac, with some commanding views over the countryside.

q       Day 11: Golinhac to Conques 21.5km. Our last day is a hilly rollercoaster into famous Conques. Out of Golinhac we continue through Campagnac and still smaller hamlets until we reach the very tranquil village called Espeyrac. It is an idyllic spot for a morning coffee. Or have one a little later  at Senergues  with its picturesque castle. There is a bit of climbing and undulating, before following a quiet road maintaining our height for a few kms until the final stony descent into Conques.  This, one of the finest hill-towns in France, clusters round the magnificent Romanesque abbey of St Foy, patron saint of prisoners: her shrine became an object of pilgrimage in its own right. The village does get its fair share of tourists, but for good reason, it is other worldly, unspoilt and absolutely chocolate box! At St. Foy they sometimes do free evening organ recitals. Other attractions include the treasury where some very fine mediaeval treasures are housed. There is also the Romanesque bridge down in the valley which is worth the detour to cross.

q       Day 12: Return home.  Limited early morning bus service to Rodez railway station, otherwise or at weekends, you will need to pre order a taxi.

 

Escorted Departures 2012

EJPT19 Tue 19 June - Sat 30 June

EJPT21 Tue 21 August - Sat 1 September

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   
Click here to download this dossier in PDF format   Download Dossier
Click here to have this dossier emailed to you in PDF format   Dossier by Email

Sherpa Expeditions, 131a Heston Road, Hounslow TW5 0RF, UK Tel: +44 (0)20 8577 2717 Fax: +44 (0)20 8572 9788
sales@sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk

home | inn-to-inn walks | escorted tours | cycle tours | walkers britain | himalayas | tailor-made expeditions