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Haute
Provence is a beautiful area of mountains and craggy limestone dissected
by deep gorges. The area's wondrous scenery, be it natural, agricultural
or architectural, has appeared in numerous films like 'Manon des
Sources', and of course the Stella Artois adverts!
Much of our walking route follows the GR4 (Grande Randonnee) long
distance trail fairly closely, which crosses France from the Cote d'Azur
to the Atlantic. Our first day's walk from St. Andre Les Alpes (not on
the GR4) traverses the hills high above the Lac de Castillon. Our second
night is spent in Castellane, a remote town with echoes of Napoleon's
march on Paris, as well as battles between maquisards and retreating
German occupiers in 1944. From here we follow an old Roman route, which
now links remote and picturesque hamlets high up on the north side of
the Verdon valley, to reach the ancient village Rougon, suspended above
the river Verdon. This is across from the limestone Jaws that mark the
entrance to the famous Verdon Gorge. It is only a short, but steep drop
down from here to Point Sublime and its great viewpoint into the abyss
of the gorge!
The
following day is spent exploring and following the best part of the
magnificent Grand Canyon (or Gorges) du Verdon - France's most
'gorgeous' scenery, with 1500-foot high limestone cliffs, towering above
the river. This is a fascinating but strenuous day: There is a tunneled
section and some safe ladders to negotiate, as you wander from meander
to meander and cliff to cliff: It is rocky underfoot. At each twist and
turn a new aspect of the gorge will open itself to you - vistas of
water, rock, forest and sky. There is a final steep climb up to a point
called La Maline and its excellent general view down into and across the
latter part of the gorge, where instead of looking like jaws, the gorge
looks more like a fissure in a high plateau. You can then either take a
taxi or walk the final road section into La Palud, a picturesque village
that boasts a fine Romanesque style church.
The
fifth day takes you up through the pine, oak and beach forest to about
1380 metres to a magnificent airy picnic spot overlooking Lac de
Ste.Croix. Then you descend along a magnificent forested rocky ridge to
the historic pottery town of Moustiers Ste. Marie. Here the hotel,
indeed the whole town, is built straddling a ravine with waterfalls.
Beyond Moustiers, the scenery abruptly changes; you are suddenly out of
the Alps. Across the Plateau de Valensole, you walk through fields of
lavender, cereals, apple orchards, vineyards and truffle forests. Our
next night is spent in a rustic hunting chateau near the historic town
of Riez, where you can admire the group of fine Roman Columns You are
now in Provence proper, the Roman Provincia.
From
Riez, you will be collected by taxi and taken to the railway station at
the mediaeval town of Manosque, from where it is a short train ride to
Aix en Provence (which is conveniently located on the way to
Marseilles). This old Roman city, originally established because of its
thermal baths, has many old features including the house of Cezanne the
famous Provencal Painter, the open air flower market, many old churches,
some fountains famous for their sculptures and the baths themselves.
With an after breakfast departure to Aix, you will have the best part of
a day to look around, before your last night of the tour there. What
better way to end than sipping a glass of the finest 'Bandol' sitting on
the Cours Mirabeau! An Extra night in Aix is also recommended!
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Travel
Information
Season:
May to mid October. Please note that it is very hot in this area in
July and August and those months are better avoided. This is an ideal trip
for spring or autumn: times of early flowers or golden hues rather than
the Lavender blues! Both spring and autumn can bring rain spells and high
summer can also produce electrical storms.
Arrival:
Between 5p.m and 7p.m on Day 1
First
hotel: At St Andre Les Alpes
Travel:
The ideal arrangement would be an “open jaw” ticket into Nice and
return from Marseille to avoid the need to travel back from Marseille to
Nice by train or bus.
By
air to Nice: British Airways Scheduled flights available from Gatwick
and Heathrow to Nice. Then airport bus no 23 to Chemins de Fer de Provence
railway station (40mins) and by train from Nice to St. Andre-les-Alpes,
which takes about 2.5 hours (14 Euros approx. not included). The last
train leaves Nice at 17.00 hours.
End
of Tour: Aix en Provence after breakfast on day 8. Bus/train to
Marseille, which takes around 40 mins. You could also travel by bus or
train back to Nice (3-4 hours). (Bus / train tickets are not included).
British Airways flight Marseille to Gatwick for return flight home.
Marseille-Provence
airport at Marignane is linked by an airport bus service with Marseille
train station (every 20 minutes) and with Aix bus station (about
once per hour). The journey
time in each case is around 30 minutes and the fare approx. 10 Euros per
person one way. The bus station in Aix is about 15 minutes walk/short taxi
ride from the train station, and in Marseille just outside the train
station. There is plenty of room for baggage on the airport bus
services.
Level
of Difficulty
Fitness:
This is a very subjective matter on this tour. Sherpa walking grades
presume a certain standard common to similar tours and an individual’s
perception of their own fitness in relation to a grading will vary.
The
walking on this tour is variously: moderate
and quite challenging. A reasonable level of fitness, a reasonable head
for heights and an ability to cope on rocky paths is required for the
gorge day and the day to Moustiers. You need good boots throughout the
tour: The trails are generally good, but on occasion there are steep or
winding sections of loose limestone shingle. Carry plenty of drinking
water and adequate protection against the sun, including a sun hat. There
are steep ascents/ descents sometimes in hot weather. You will need to
take care walking on this tour.
Day
stages: In the region of 14km to 23km per day with average altitude
gains of 550m. 5 to 8 hours walking per day for most people. Slow walkers
will take longer.
Waymarks:
The trail follows in the main well-established paths, much of the way
being waymarked with the distinctive white/red/white GR (Grande Randonnee)
waymarks and presents no special difficulties. Other sections have yellow
or red paint marks and perhaps wooden signs. There are sections with steep
steel ladders during the traverse of the Gorges du Verdon, but they have
posed no problems to any of the hundreds of our customers who have done
this trek either escorted or self-guided. A compass
and the skill to use it can be desirable at one or two points, notably on
Days 3 & 5.
Accommodation
& Meals
Accommodation
is on a half board basis on most nights in country inns (1*, 2* or 3*
Logis de France approved or similar standard) and 1 converted chateau. Bed
and breakfast and 5 evening meals are included; on 2 nights you dine out
at your own expense. Picnic lunches are not included in the tour cost but
are available from hotels or can easily be obtained from local shops. We
indicate in the route notes where there are suitable restaurants or cafes
for lunch stops, or recommend you carry food if there are none convenient
to the trail.
q
Night 1: St
Andre-les-Alpes. A delightful Alpine village on the famous’ Ligne
des Pignes’ narrow gauge railway that links Digne and Nice. A centre for
parascending. Our usual hotel is marvelously situated at the edge of Saint
Andre les Alpes, in the heart of a wide valley with a beautiful view
towards Lac de Castillon and
the surrounding mountains. Classified 2* star in the Logis de France
guide, this hotel offers rooms with ensuite facilities, as well as a good
restaurant for your evening meal (Dinner included).
q
Night 2: Castellane. Our 2* hotel overlooks the main square of the
historic mountain town, right on the ‘Route Napoleon’, all rooms have
en suite facilities, T.V. Telephone. There is a fine Provencal large
windowed restaurant serving fine evening meals. (Bed and Breakfast only)
q
Night 3: Point Sublime. This is the only hotel in the area, a rather neo
Victorian establishment, situated on its terrace above the Verdon and
across from the vertical cleft in the limestone plateau that marks the
entrance to the gorge. Good rustic food is the norm, there is a nice
terrace bar and there is a pleasing old-fashioned air about the place.
During the high season it may be necessary to spend the night in La Palud
as tomorrow and to do the gorge walk with a taxi transfer back to point
Sublime which will be included if this is the case
(Dinner is included). Please note that the hotel’s restaurant is
closed on Wednesday evenings. If you happen to be at the hotel on a
Wednesday, we will organize for a “cold plate” meal to be left for you
in the lounge.
q
Night 4: La Palud. Our preferred, welcoming, modern hotel inside the
ancient centre of the village well deserves its 2 star classification in
the Logis de France guide. Its 20 spacious rooms have full ensuite
facilities, TV etc. The cuisine is usually of a high standard – their
buffet, when available, is particularly good. Breakfast is a buffet style
as well and may include yoghurt with honey, a variety of fresh fruit,
freshly baked bread and croissants. (Dinner
included).
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Night 5: Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
Our comfortable and sensitively modernised small hotel is centrally
situated in this popular village overlooking a series of waterfalls. It
has a restaurant where you can take your time over dinner and from
the light and airy breakfast room you may observe dippers flitting from
boulder to boulder in the torrent below. (Dinner is included).
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Night 6. Near Riez.
We stay at a converted chateau in an idyllic rural setting 4km from the
town of Riez. This is a real country house with very obvious connections
with hunting and horses. The place has a rustic rural elegance.
There is a small pool
which is generally open
throughout our season. Rooms
are generally spacious and some have garden views. (Dinner is included).
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Night
7.
We offer a modern town hotel near the center of Aix en Provence. It
is situated a few blocks away from the coach /bus station for Nice or
Marseilles. It is a useful springboard for visiting the rest of the
mediaeval town. (Bed and breakfast only).
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Outline
Itinerary
q
Day 1. Arrive
Nice. Transfer from airport to Chemin de Fer de Provence narrow gauge
railway station and thence by train along spectacular alpine valleys to
St. Andre, a small village set between forested hills and the Lac de
Castillon. If there is time it is recommended that if you are able to take
an early train that you stop at the beautiful historic town of Entrevoux
and then catch the later train to St. Andre. (Train not included in tour
price).
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Day 2. We follow
narrow trails over the hills high above the western side of the Lac de
Castillon. Along the way the intense yellow flowers (at least in Spring)
and honeyed scent of wild Broom and Rosemary, contrast with the
deep green shades and resinous air of the pine forest. You are finally
greeted by the stunning out crop of Notre Dame de Roche above Castellane;
and you should have plenty of time before dinner to climb up to the little
chapel there and take in the sunset. 15km/6hrs.
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Day 3. The well
waymarked GR4 long distance trail from Castellane follows an ancient Roman
route high up on the side of the deep winding Verdon valley. Ancient
villages, with their tightly clustered ochre-walled houses, seem to grow
naturally out of the rugged landscape. There is a small artisan village
enroute where you can purchase hand made brooches, pottery and lavender
essence, before heading off over the high limestone moors (compass
useful here) and pastures before dropping down to Rougon and thence to
Point Sublime. 22km/7hrs.
q
Day 4: Today we
tackle the traverse of the famous Gorges du Verdon, France's Grand Canyon.
High up on the towering red and grey limestone walls of the gorge you may
even spot rock gymnasts pitting their skill against the force of gravity.
The gorge is quite challenging for hikers too, as there are a number of
metal ladders to negotiate along the way. The walking is not as daunting
as it may sound and only a modest head for heights and an ability on rocky
paths is required. Halfway along is a delightful spot to picnic and cool
off by the river. At certain water levels this is a nice place for a dip
although normally very cold! Then there is a steep, sweaty climb up to La
Maline, where from the balcony of the gite there you can in season, enjoy
an overview of the gorge over a cold drink, before debating whether or not
to walk the last section on road to La Palud, or take a taxi. 12km/6hrs
(Point Sublime to Maline); 20km/8hrs (Point Sublime to La Palud).
q
Day 5: Today we
follow a high forested ridge overlooking the turquoise-blue Lac de Ste.
Croix, before making a steep descent and gradual reascent to the little
town of Moustiers Ste. Marie, clustered at the foot of towering crags and
long famous for its ceramics. The walking is dramatic, wild and beautiful
and on the descent, you wind through giant limestone crags and rock
towers. 16km/6hrs.
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Day 6: We walk
abruptly up over the scarp slope and out of the Provencal Alps and into a
new landscape: the broad vistas and immense arching skies of the Plateau
de Valensole. The plateau is cultivated for cereals, lavender (at its best
in July) and truffles (hidden underground between
rows of specially planted Downey Oaks). We descend to the tiny
village of Roumoules, perhaps have your picnic in the square under the
plane trees. Next there is a gentle climb along a woody ridge and then a
short steepish descent down to the town of Riez, where the columns of a
Roman temple remind us of its historic past. After a Pastis (definitely
not included), head off along the riverside, and short road section to our
quiet hotel, that is except for the geese! Our night is spent in a
converted chateau in a quiet rural setting about 4km from Riez. It is a
superb quiet location to unwind. In season on warm days, you may want to
enjoy the swimming pool in which to cool off. 23km/6.5hrs.
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Day 7: After
breakfast you will be transported to Manosque
(included) to take a morning train to Aix en Provence (50 mins).
The train takes about 50 mins.
q
Day 8: Depart Aix
when ready: Bus or train from Aix perhaps to Marseille and its airport or
back to Nice. Marseilles is only 40 minutes away. Nice about 3 hours. Some
people have preferred to return to Nice by train to Digne and then the
Ligne des Pignes to Nice.
Escorted departures 2008
EJPR17
Sat 17 May – Sat 24 May
EJPR20
Sat 20 Sept – Sat 27 Sept
Please
note: That the holiday price does not include the cost of public
transport to the first Hotel
in St. Andre on Day 1: The train
from Manosque to Aix
en Provence on Day 7:, and transport
from Aix to departure points on Day 8.
General information
Note:
Baths:
it is not normal for your room to have a bath, the main reason being that
it takes up a lot of space, some hotels/guesthouses may have a separate
room in the house where a bath is available to guests, but in the main it
is showers.
Breakfast:
in countries such as France usually consists of coffee and
toast/croissant, if you want more for breakfast then we would suggest you
purchase some food the night before. It is important for you to tell us if
you have any dietary requirements when you book your holiday
so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.
Single
Supplements:
are payable on most of our tours. 1) The single supplement
guarantees the privacy of your own room, however, rooms can at times be
small and in some places may not enjoy the same facilities as double/twin
rooms. 2) You are not just paying a supplement on the room but the
luggage transfer costs you are paying in full. The cost of moving 1 bag or
2 bags etc remains the same. On some of our trips it is possible to reduce
the cost of the single supplement if you happen to be a 3rd
person travelling, or have chosen a date when other clients are booked.
Please
note that in the case of late bookings or hotel closure we may use various
other hotels, which offer a similar standard of accommodation and cuisine.
Language:
Note
that you will not necessarily come across people speaking English.
Remember you have left home to find things different bring a phrase book,
try to learn a bit of French!
Luggage:
When
staying in hotels, sometimes your luggage will have been taken to you room
awaiting your arrival. However don’t be surprised if your luggage is
waiting for you to take it up to your room please politely ask someone if
you need assistance.
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