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Haute
Provence is a beautiful area of mountains and craggy limestone dissected
by deep gorges. The area's wondrous scenery, be it natural, agricultural
or architectural, has appeared in numerous films like 'Manon des
Sources', and of course the Stella Artois adverts!
Much of our walking route follows the GR4 (Grande Randonnee) long
distance trail fairly closely, which crosses France from the Cote d'Azur
to the Atlantic. Our first day's walk from St. Andre Les Alpes (not on
the GR4) traverses the hills high above the Lac de Castillon. Our second
night is spent in Castellane, a remote town with echoes of Napoleon's
march on Paris, as well as battles between maquisards and retreating
German occupiers in 1944. From here we follow an old Roman route, which
now links remote and picturesque hamlets high up on the north side of
the Verdon valley, to reach the ancient village Rougon, suspended above
the river Verdon. This is across from the limestone Jaws that mark the
entrance to the famous Verdon Gorge. It is only a short, but steep drop
down from here to Point Sublime and its great viewpoint into the abyss
of the gorge!
The
following day is spent exploring and following the best part of the
magnificent Grand Canyon (or Gorges) du Verdon - France's most
'gorgeous' scenery, with 1500-foot high limestone cliffs, towering above
the river. This is a fascinating but strenuous day: There is a tunneled
section and some safe ladders to negotiate, as you wander from meander
to meander and cliff to cliff: It is rocky underfoot. At each twist and
turn a new aspect of the gorge will open itself to you - vistas of
water, rock, forest and sky. There is a final steep climb up to a point
called La Maline and its excellent general view down into and across the
latter part of the gorge, where instead of looking like jaws, the gorge
looks more like a fissure in a high plateau. You can then either take a
taxi or walk the final road section into La Palud, a picturesque village
that boasts a fine Romanesque style church. There
is an alternative walk should the gorge be closed for maintenance, an
easier walk above the gorge to the
‘Belvedere de Rancoumas’, a beautiful
view point overlooking the gorge which nevertheless involves some 500
metres of ascent.
The
fifth day takes you up through the pine, oak and beach forest to about
1380 metres to a magnificent airy picnic spot overlooking Lac de
Ste.Croix. Then you descend along a magnificent forested rocky ridge to
the historic pottery town of Moustiers Ste. Marie. Here the hotel,
indeed the whole town, is built straddling a ravine with waterfalls.
Beyond Moustiers, the scenery abruptly changes; you are suddenly out of
the Alps. Across the Plateau de Valensole, you walk through fields of
lavender, cereals, apple orchards, vineyards and truffle forests. Our
next night is spent in the historic town
of Riez, where you can admire the group of fine Roman Columns. You are
now in Provence proper, the Roman Provincia.
From
Riez, you will be collected by taxi and taken to the railway station at
the mediaeval town of Manosque, from where it is a short train ride to
Aix en Provence (which is conveniently located on the way to
Marseilles). This old Roman city, originally established because of its
thermal baths, has many old features including the house of Cezanne the
famous Provencal Painter, the open air flower market, many old churches,
some fountains famous for their sculptures and the baths themselves.
With an after breakfast departure to Aix, you will have the best part of
a day to look around, before your last night of the tour there. What
better way to end than sipping a glass of the finest 'Bandol' sitting on
the Cours Mirabeau! An Extra night in Aix is also recommended!
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Travel
Information
Season:
May to mid October. Please note that it is very hot in this area in
July and August and those months are better avoided if you do not like
walking in the heat. This is an ideal trip
for spring or autumn: times of early flowers or golden hues rather than
the Lavender blues! Both spring and autumn can bring rain spells and high
summer can also produce electrical storms.
Arrival:
Between 5p.m and 7p.m on Day 1
First
hotel: At St Andre Les Alpes
Travel:
We offer a
return flight to Nice from London Heathrow with BA however a more
ideal arrangement would be an “open jaw” ticket into Nice (from London
Heathrow) and return from Marseille (to London Gatwick) if
you are using public transport to and from airports. There may be a small
supplement. Please enquire.
Low cost airlines also fly to Nice and Marseille.
By
air to Nice: British Airways Scheduled
flights available from Heathrow to Nice.
Travel
to St. Andre:
From Nice Airport, take airport bus no 23 to Chemins de Fer de
Provence railway station (40mins) and by train from Nice to St. Andre-les-Alpes,
which takes about 2.5 hours (14 Euros approx. not included). The last
train leaves Nice at 17.00 hours.
It
is also possible from Nice Airport to travel by afternoon bus direct to
St. Andre. There is only one a day and not on Sundays. This takes about
1.5 hours. (14 Euros approx not included).
End
of Tour: Aix en Provence after breakfast on day 8.
You
travel by bus or
train back to Nice (3-4 hours). (Bus / train tickets are not included).
Then BA flight from Nice to London Heathrow.
Or
shuttle Bus (Navette) from Aix to Marseille-Provence airport at Marignane,
which takes around 25 mins (7.25
E) If you are taking a
British Airways flight Marseille to Gatwick for return flight home. On the
way the bus calls in at Aix TGV station. These buses run every 30 mins
during the day.
Another
Navette from Aix runs to Marseilles St. Charles railway station taking around 45 mins. The fare approx. 10
Euros per person one way.
The
bus station in Aix is about 15 minutes walk/short taxi ride from the train
station, and in Marseille just outside the train station.
There is plenty of room for baggage on the airport bus services.
Level
of Difficulty
Fitness:
This is a very subjective matter on this tour. Sherpa walking grades
presume a certain standard common to similar tours and an individual’s
perception of their own fitness in relation to a grading will vary.
The
walking on this tour is variously: moderate
and quite challenging. A reasonable level of fitness, a reasonable head
for heights and an ability to cope on rocky paths is required for the
gorge and several other days. You need good boots throughout the
tour: The trails are generally good, but on occasion there are steep or
winding sections of loose limestone shingle. Carry plenty of drinking
water and adequate protection against the sun, including a sun hat. There
are steep ascents/ descents sometimes in hot weather. You will need to
take care walking on this tour.
Day
stages: In the region of 14km to 23km per day with average altitude
gains of 550m. 5 to 8 hours walking per day for most people. Slow walkers
will take longer.
Waymarks:
The trail follows in the main well-established paths, much of the way
being waymarked with the distinctive white/red/white GR (Grande Randonnee)
waymarks and presents no special difficulties. Other sections have yellow
or red paint marks and perhaps wooden signs. There are sections with steep
steel ladders during the traverse of the Gorges du Verdon, but they have
posed no problems to any of the hundreds of our customers who have done
this trek either escorted or self-guided. A compass
and the skill to use it can be desirable at one or two points, notably on
Days 3 & 5.
Accommodation
& Meals
Accommodation
is on a half board basis on most nights in country inns (1*, 2* or 3*
Logis de France approved or similar standard) and a Chambre d'hote. Bed
and breakfast and 4 evening meals are included; on 3 nights you dine out
at your own expense. Picnic lunches are not included in the tour cost but
are available from hotels or can easily be obtained from local shops. We
indicate in the route notes where there are suitable restaurants or cafes
for lunch stops, or recommend you carry food if there are none convenient
to the trail.
q
Night 1: St
Andre-les-Alpes. A delightful Alpine village on the famous’ Ligne
des Pignes’ narrow gauge railway that links Digne and Nice. A centre for
parascending. Our
usual accommdation is marvelously situated above the village, in the heart
of a wide valley with a beautiful view towards Lac de Castillon and the
surrounding mountains. Our gite- hotel offers simple
rooms with ensuite facilities. The patrons really concentrate on
their restaurant, and the dinners which are much commented on by our
walkers. (Dinner included).
q
Night 2: Castellane. Our 2* hotel overlooks the main square of the
historic mountain town, right on the ‘Route Napoleon’, all rooms have
en suite facilities, T.V. Telephone. There is a fine Provencal large
windowed restaurant serving fine evening meals, and many people eat out on
the terrace here. (Bed and Breakfast only.)
q
Night 3: Point Sublime. This is the only hotel in the area, a rather neo
Victorian establishment, situated on its terrace above the Verdon and
across from the vertical cleft in the limestone plateau that marks the
entrance to the gorge. Good rustic food is the norm, there is a nice
terrace bar and there is a pleasing old-fashioned air about the place.
During the high season it may be necessary to spend the night in La Palud
as tomorrow and to do the gorge walk with a taxi transfer back to point
Sublime which will be included if this is the case
(Dinner is included). Please note that the hotel’s restaurant is
closed on Wednesday evenings. If you happen to be at the hotel on a
Wednesday, we will organize for a “cold plate” meal to be left for you
in the lounge.
q
Night 4: La Palud. Our preferred, welcoming, modern hotel inside the
ancient centre of the village well deserves its 2 star classification in
the Logis de France guide. Its 20 spacious rooms have full ensuite
facilities, TV etc. The cuisine is usually of a high standard – their
buffet, when available, is particularly good. Breakfast is a buffet style
as well and may include yoghurt with honey, a variety of fresh fruit,
freshly baked bread and croissants. (Dinner
included).
q
Night 5: Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
Our
comfortable and sensitively modernised small hotel was originally a
mediaeval building centrally situated in this popular village overlooking
a series of waterfalls. It has an outside restaurant terrace where
you can take your time over dinner (Dinner is included).
q
Night 6. Near Riez.
We stay at a converted chateau in an idyllic rural setting 4km from the
town of Riez. This is a real country house with very obvious connections
with hunting and horses. The place has a rustic rural elegance.
There is a small pool
which is generally open
throughout our season. Rooms
are normally spacious and some have garden views. (Dinner is included).
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Night
7.
We offer a modern town hotel near the center of Aix en Provence. It
is situated 15 minutes walk away from the coach /bus station for Nice or
Marseilles. It is also a useful springboard for visiting the rest of the
mediaeval town. (Bed and breakfast only).
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Outline
Itinerary
q
Day
1: Travel
to St. Andre-Les-Alpes. Arrive Nice. Transfer from airport to Chemin
de Fer de Provence narrow gauge railway station and thence by train along
spectacular alpine valleys to St. Andre, a small village set between
forested hills and the Lac de Castillon. If you arrive early afternoon, it
will be more convenient to take a bus to St. Andre instead.
Taking the train option. If you arrive early
enough it is recommended that you take an early train and stop at the
beautiful historic town of Entrevaux and then catch the later train to St.
Andre. (Train approx 14 Euros and bus 14 Euros, not included in tour
price)
q
Day
2: St. Andre to Castellane. We follow narrow
trails over the hills high above the western side of the Lac de Castillon.
Along the way the intense yellow flowers (at least in Spring) and honeyed
scent of wild Broom and Rosemary, contrast with the deep green shades and
resinous air of the pine forest. You are finally greeted by the stunning
out crop of Notre Dame de Roche above Castellane; and you should have
plenty of time before dinner to climb up to the little chapel there and
take in the sunset. 15km/6hrs.
q
Day
3: Castellane to Point
Sublime (Rougon). The well waymarked GR4
long distance trail from Castellane follows an ancient Roman route high up
on the side of the deep winding Verdon valley. Ancient villages, with
their tightly clustered ochre-walled houses, seem to grow naturally out of
the rugged landscape. There is a tiny village called Chasteuil, which
maybe a good place for a picnic, before heading off over the high
limestone moors (compass useful here) and pastures before dropping down to
Rougon and thence to Point Sublime. 18km/6hrs.
q
Day
4: Point Sublime to La Palud
via the Sentier Martel.
Today we tackle the traverse of the famous
Gorges du Verdon, France's Grand Canyon. High up on the towering red and
grey limestone walls of the gorge you may even spot rock climbers pitting
their skill against the force of gravity. The gorge is quite challenging
for hikers too, as there are a number of metal ladders to negotiate along
the way. The walking is not as daunting as it may sound and only a modest
head for heights and an ability to walk on rocky paths is required.
Halfway along is a delightful spot to picnic by the river. Then there is a
steep, sweaty climb up to La Maline, where from the balcony of the gite
there you can in season, enjoy an overview of the gorge over a cold drink,
before debating whether or not to walk the last section on road to La
Palud, or take a taxi. 14km/6hrs (Point Sublime to Maline); 22km/8hrs
(Point Sublime to La Palud).
*Please
note that from 1st Sept to Jan 2011 and 1st Sept to
January 2012 the Sentier
Martel (i.e the Verdon Gorge), is closed due to essential security
maintenance along the track. These dates may change with work progress.
If
you book during these dates there is another walk you can do to the
beautiful viewpoint at Rancoumas, overlooking the gorge and the
surrounding mountains. The return walk takes between 3 to 5 hours
(returning to Point Sublime). Ascent gain around 500 metres, 9 kms.
distance. When the gorge is closed you will be collected at a certain time
after your walk and transferred with your baggage to la Palud.
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Day
5: La
Palud to Moustiers. After
a stiff ascent above La Palud through some interesting limestone scenery
and shady forests, this walk follows a high forested ridge overlooking the
turquoise-blue Lac de Ste. Croix, before making a steep descent and
gradual reascent to the little town of Moustiers Ste. Marie. This is
clustered at the foot of towering crags and long famous for its ceramics
and waters. The walking is dramatic, wild and beautiful and on the
descent, you wind through giant limestone crags and rock towers.
16km/6.5hrs
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Day
6: Moustiers
to Riez. We walk abruptly up over the scarp slope and out of the
Provencal Alps and into a new landscape: the broad vistas and immense
arching skies of the Plateau de Valensole. There are views of the
whale-backed peak of Mont Ventoux, familiar to Tour de France Cyclists.
The plateau is cultivated for cereals, lavender (at its best in July) and
truffles (hidden underground between
rows of specially planted Downey Oaks). We descend to the village
of Roumoules, perhaps have your picnic in the square under the plane
trees. Next there is a gentle climb along a woody ridge and then a short
steepish descent down to the town of Riez, where the columns of a Roman
temple remind us of its historic past. After a Pastis (definitely not
included), head
into the town centre to your Chambre d’hote in
a quiet location within the town walls . It is a superb place to
unwind. 20km/6 hrs.
q
Day
7: Riez,
transfer to Aix en Provence. After breakfast you will be transported
to Manosque (included) to take a late morning train to Aix en Provence. The
train takes about 50 mins and costs approx 12 Euros (not included). This
is a beautiful artistic city with a profusion of fountains, cafes spilling
onto the streets, interesting architecture including St. Sauveur’s
Cathedral with its beautiful triptych of ‘The Burning Bush’ by
Nicholas Fromant (1476) and nearby there is the Cezanne museum. It is an
easy city to walk around and the flower and fruit markets on Saturdays are
exceptional. Excellent restaurants can be found in the maze of backstreets,
representing Provence, France and its colonial backwash.
q
Day 8: Depart Aix
when ready: Bus or train from Aix perhaps to Marseille and its airport or
back to Nice. Marseilles is only 40 minutes away. Nice about 3 hours. Some
people have preferred to return to Nice by train to Digne and then the
Ligne des Pignes to Nice.
Please
note: That
the holiday price does not include the cost of Taxis and public transport
in conjunction with the itineraryunless
stated.
General
Information
Hotels:
The hotels described are our usual choice of accommodation, however if
these are not available then alternatives are used and if these are of a
different standard you will be informed at the time of booking.
Baths/showers: Many rooms with ensuite/private
facilities have a shower rather than a bath, usually because of limited
space. Some hotels/guesthouses may however have a separate room in the
house where a bath is available to guests.
Breakfast:
In countries such as France is usually coffee and toast/bread/croissant,
if you want more for breakfast then we would suggest you purchase some
food the night before.
Special
Dietary Requirements: It is important
for you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your
holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.
Single
Supplements: are payable on most of
our tours. The single
supplement guarantees the privacy of your own room, however, rooms can at
times be small and in some places may not enjoy the same facilities as
double/twin rooms.
Solo
Traveller Supplements: are payable
when the cost per bag of moving luggage increases.
Language:
When
travelling in less frequented areas you will not necessarily come
across people speaking English. Remember you are experiencing a different
culture, buy a phrase book and try to learn a little of the local
language!
Luggage:
When staying in hotels, sometimes your
luggage will have been taken to you room awaiting your arrival. However
don’t be surprised if your luggage is waiting for you to take it up to
your room. Please politely ask someone if you need assistance.
Route
Notes: Please note that one set of
route notes per room booked is included in the cost of the holiday. If you
require more sets of notes then there is a charge of £25 per set ordered.
Route notes are not issued to clients booking escorted departures.
Insurance:
All clients must have appropriate cover for the activities included for
the duration of our trip.
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