SIERRA DE ARACENA
Walking old Smugglers' Trails in southern Spain
During "el hambre" - the hunger - in the 1940's and 50's (after the Spanish Civil War) many of the locals became "Mochileros" - packmen - smuggling goods across the Sierra from the Portuguese border. They used high remote paths carrying their contraband on its first leg towards Seville. You will certainly be well off the beaten track following some of these old paths to explore the verdant landscapes where black Iberian pigs snuffle amongst the Cork and Holm Oak woodlands and bird spotters have a good chance of seeing black vultures, eagles, heron, egrets and the storks that nest on almost every village church.
Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche is the second largest Natural Park of Andalucía and recently awarded the European Charter for Sustainable tourism. It lies in the north of Huelva province, which in turn is the most
westerly province of Andalucía, not far from the Portuguese border. With only 40,000 inhabitants scattered over its 3.000 square kilometres it is probably one of the least known and visited of all the parks in Andalucia, which is surprising considering the lush vegetation that thrives here almost all year round. Spring brings a profusion of wild flowers, the autumnal colours light up La Sierra and a gourmet feast of wild mushrooms are found in masses given the right conditions.
The rolling hills and white villages offer wonderful walking opportunities. The character of the villages has changed little over the centuries, their history reflected in their architecture and the landscape surrounding them. On walks you pass along Roman cobbled tracks, glimpsing abandoned watermills and ancient hill forts left by the Moors. You can still see villagers working their small allotments, hear the ringing of goat bells among the oaks and chestnuts, and the bubbling of the many streams and springs which abound in these hills. Many of the tracks are accompanied by the ancient Arabian water system "acequia" and were favoured routes for the smugglers carrying their loads from Portugal.
The towns and villages along the way are a delight and are just about as ‘Spanish’ as you can get. Arecena is a lively market town with a ‘cave of wonders' and a great museum, which will give you an insight into the history and traditions of the region you will be walking through. The stonework and fountains of Linares; the gorges and forests around Alajar; the only preserved rural mosque in Spain and a Templar castle are just a few of the things to see along the way.
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Your Accommodation
6
nights/7 days - Not all of the accommodation we use in this rural part of Spain is easily
catagorised in the normal way. We use a mix of hotels, aparthotels, hostals, inns and rural guesthouses. All of course provide a good standard of accommodation and a little extra character. In Aracena you stay in a recently converted mill tastefully decorated in a rustic style. Nights 2 and
3 are spent in Alájar at a small family run 18th century Inn recently renovated to offer a homely and comfortable stay. Almonaster boasts an interesting islamic history with a beautiful tiny 9th-century
mosque; here you stay at a 2 star family run hotel which also hosts a restaurant. When you get to Galaroza make your way to the top of the village where you will find your 2 star aparthotel with lovely views across the sierra and its own restaurant and swimming pool.
1 night is spent in the lively village of Fuentheridos in a comfortable and friendly family run hostal just below the church.
8 nights/9 days - At the end of the trip one extra night is spent at Fuentheridos and the last night is spent back in Alájar. Extra
nights in Seville are at a 3* hotel close to the city centre.
Sherpa Notes
Waymarking
Waymarking is sparse but the paths are good and the route notes will iron out any tricky route finding.
Accommodation
and Meals
A mixture of hotels, hostals, aparthotels, inns and guesthouses. Rooms all have ensuite facilities. Breakfast each morning is included, together with 2 evening meals in Alajar.
Travel
This trip is offered only on a Land Only basis. Low cost airline Ryanair fly from Stansted and Liverpool to Seville. These flights are best booked direct with the airline.
On arrival at Seville airport it is either a short taxi ride followed by a 1˝ hr bus ride (approx €35 total per person) or a taxi all the way to the first hotel (approx
€125). The return journey to the airport is almost identical and the costs are the same.
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