Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche is the second largest Natural Park of Andalucía (declared a Natural Park in 1989 and recently awarded the European Charter for Sustainable tourism), lying in the north of Huelva province, which in turn is the most westerly province of Andalucía, not far indeed from the Portuguese border. With only 40,000 inhabitants scattered over its 3.000 square kilometres it is probably one of the least known and visited of all the parks in Andalucia and you’ll be surprised by the lush vegetation almost all year round, the profusion of wild flowers through the spring months, the autumnal colours lighting up la Sierra and a gourmets feast of wild mushrooms found in masses given the right conditions.

The rolling hills and white villages offer wonderful walking opportunities. The character of the villages has changed little over the centuries, their history reflected in their architecture and the landscape surrounding them. On walks you pass along Roman cobbled tracks, glimpsing abandoned watermills and ancient hill forts left by the Moors. You can still see villagers working their small allotments, hear the ringing of goat bells among the oaks and chestnuts, and the bubbling of the many streams and springs which abound in these hills. Many of these tracks are accompanied by the ancient arabian water system “acequia” and were frequently used during the Spanish Civil War and after to smuggle goods into Spain from Portugal.

Herds of the black Iberian pig grazing among the groves of cork and holm (Quercus Suber and Ilex) oak are a common sight, where in autumn they feast on the falling acorns and the area is rich in visible bird life with an important population of black vultures. Other raptors are common and include the Golden, Short-toed and Bonelli’s eagles. You can see stork’s nests on almost every village church as well as the endangered black stork, and as you wander along the streams, sightings of heron and egrets are common.

Andalucía suffered acutely during “La epoca negra” – the black period – or simply “el hambre” -the hunger - during the 1940’s and 50’s, after the Spanish Civil War, forcing mass emigration to larger cities and abroad to find work to support their families. In La Sierra some opted to join the smuggling trade and become “Mochileros” – packmen. It was a tough and risky business carrying upto 30kgs in homemade backpacks with rope for straps from the Portugese border village Barrancos into the Sierra to be then moved down to Sevilla. Organised by smuggling bosses, the mochileros would carry loads of the three main staples beans, coffee and tobacco over 100 km in a 24 hr period. Empty mule trains would be used along the wider paths to distract the Guardia Civil – Border Police – whilst the Mochileros would use the higher, rockier paths to stealthily enter La Sierra and deliver their goods to places such as La Posada in Alájar where hiding places where provided until the goods were moved on. The Sevillanos to this day insist that Portugese coffee is the worse to be had!

Travel Information

The most convenient airport to fly to is Seville. This holiday is offered on a land only basis as we are unable to sell Ryanair flights and they offer the best direct flight options from Stansted and Liverpool. Clickair also flies from Gatwick to Seville direct

Traveling from Seville to Aracena can be done in 2 ways. Either pre book a taxi with Sherpa (to be paid locally - approx 125 Euros for up to 4 passengers) or take a taxi from the airport to Seville bus station (approx 23 Euros) and then a bus to Arecena (approx 5 Euros). The bus departs at 09.00 and 16.00 and takes 1½ hrs. The vehicles used are comfortable air conditioned coaches.

(There is a bus from the airport into Seville but it goes to a different bus station to the one you require for the bus to Aracena. If you take this bus you will need to take a taxi to Plaza de Armas bus station.)

At the end of the 9-day or 7-day tours you can either pre-book a taxi for the return journey or take the bus from Alajar or Fuenteheridos. The bus arrives in Seville at 09.00 or 18.20 and will allow you to get to the airport in time for flights after 12.00 and 21.00. The costs for the return journey are the same as the outward travel.

Level of Difficulty

The tour is graded moderate; the terrain is not difficult but there are some ascents and descents.

Fitness: The walking should present no difficulty to anyone in good general health who is accustomed to hiking.

Waymarks: The itinerary follows well-used footpaths, mule tracks, unsurfaced forest roads and occasional short stretches of tarmac roads. Signposting and waymarking is intermittent so it is necessary to be able to use a topographic map in conjunction with our specially researched and written route notes.

Accommodation & Meals

6 or 8 nights bed and breakfast, together with 2 evening meals on nights 2 and 3 in Alajar. Evening meals on other days can be taken at your choice of restaurant. Supplies for picnic lunches can readily be purchased each day.

Night 1 in Aracena. You will be staying in a recently converted mill, which has been tastefully decorated in a rustic style with wonderful little touches.

Nights 2, 3 & 8: In Alájar you stay at La Posada, a small family run 18^th century Inn recently renovated to offer a homely and comfortable stay.

Night 4: Almonaster.Tonight you stay at a 2 star family run hotel, which also hosts a restaurant.

Night 5: Galaroza. You stay at the top of the village in a 2 star aparthotel with lovely views across the sierra and with its own restaurant and swimming pool.

Nights 6 & 7: Fuenteheridos. Just below the church you will find your accommodation in a comfortable and friendly family run hostal.

Extra night in Seville:  Spend a night in a 3 star hotel in the centre of the old Jewish Quarter “Barrio Santa Cruz”.

Baggage Transfers

On the days that you walk on to new accommodation (days 2, 4, 5, 6 and 8) baggage is transferred to the next night's stop.

Outline Itinerary

Below is the itinerary for the 9-day holiday. The 7-day holiday misses the last two nights ending in Fuentheridos on the morning of day 7 after breakfast.

q     Day 1: Arrival in Aracena. Time permitting a wander around this lively market town, a visit to the “Gruta de las Maravillas (“cave of wonders”) and a guided tour around the Jamón museum will give you some insight on the journey you are about to undertake.

q     Day 2: Along the old mule motorway of centuries past through cork oak forests you will reach the delightful town of Linares. Here the intricately patterned stone thresholds and beautifully preserved fountain – lavadero are worth visiting before heading towards the deserted village of Los Madroñeros and Alájar beyond where your well earned dinner awaits you at La Posada. Alájar is an arabian word roughly translated to Jewel and some say that this village is the jewel of the Sierra.

q     Day 3: A choice of 2 circular walks: A 3 hour walk gently climbing the sierra behind the village to take in the views, visiting the hermitage and through the impressive chestnut forests. Or following the picturesque stream south through a dramatic gorge with superb rock formations opening out into the woodlands of cork and holm oaks (5.5hrs).before returning back for a delicious 3 course meal at La Posada.

q     Day 4: Leaving Alájar we head west towards Almonaster along the stream valley populated with oleander, poplar and ferns, passing through several small villages on the way. Almonaster boasts an interesting Islamic history with a beautiful tiny 9^th-century mosque (the only rural mosque preserved in Spain) well worth a detour.

q     Day 5: Skirting the second highest peak in the Sierra we head up and north towards Galaroza surrounded by sweet chestnut forest abound with wild peonies in Spring, enjoying marvelous views towards the coast and inland and the Templar castle of Cortegana dominating the skyline (6hrs). Make your way to the top of the village where you will find your aparthotel.

q     Day 6: Again heading north you will walk through cork and holm oak forests before dropping down into a medieval village. Heading south you will walk along a delightful river valley through another typical white village before gently dropping into the lively village of Fuentheridos (6hrs).

q     Day 7: A circular route that takes in the highest village in La Sierra, Castaño, through ancient chestnut forests that abound with wild flowers in spring and are ablaze with colour in autumn (5hrs).

q     Day 8: The final walk takes us through pretty plantations of citrus, quince, pomegranate and strawberry trees. The climb over the sierra is well worth the vistas on your way. Down into Linares and then the final pull to return back to Alájar for your final night (5hrs).

q     Day 9: Depart Alájar after breakfast.

 Extend your trip with a night in Seville: Include a day and night in evocative Sevilla. Discover the wonders of this beautiful city from its Roman and Arabian heritage to modern day. Wander the maze of tiny streets stopping of at bars and cafés on the way. Please ask for details.

General Information

Baths: it is not normal for your room to have a bath, the main reason being that it takes up a lot of space, some hotels/guesthouses may have a separate room in the house where a bath is available to guests, but most rooms have just a shower.

Breakfast: in countries such as France/Italy/Spain/Greece etc breakfast is usually coffee and toast/croissant, if you want more for breakfast then we would suggest you purchase some food the night before. It is important for you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.

Language: When travelling in less frequented areas you will not necessarily come across people speaking English. Remember you have left home to find things different, take a phrase book and learn some Spanish.

Luggage: When staying in hotels, sometimes your luggage will have been taken to your room awaiting your arrival. However don’t be surprised if your luggage is waiting for you to take it up to your room.