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Sierra
de Aracena y Picos de Aroche is the second largest Natural Park of
Andalucía (declared a Natural Park in 1989 and recently awarded
the European Charter for sustainable tourism), lying in the north
of Huelva province, which in turn is the most westerly province of
Andalucía, not far indeed from the Portuguese border. With only
40,000 inhabitants scattered over its 3.000 square kilometres it
is probably one of the least known and visited of all the parks in
Andalucia and you’ll be surprised by the lush vegetation almost
all year round, the profusion of wild flowers through the spring
months, the autumnal colours lighting up la Sierra and a gourmets
feast of wild mushrooms found in masses given the right
conditions.
The
rolling hills and white villages offer wonderful walking
opportunities. The character of the villages has changed little
over the centuries, their history reflected in their architecture
and the landscape surrounding them. On walks you pass along Roman
cobbled tracks, glimpsing abandoned watermills and ancient hill
forts left by the Moors. You can still see villagers working their
small allotments, hear the ringing of goat bells among the oaks
and chestnuts, and the bubbling of the many streams and springs
which abound in these hills. Many of these tracks are accompanied
by the ancient arabian water system “acequia” and were
frequently used during the Spanish Civil War and after to smuggle
goods into Spain from Portugal.
Herds
of the black Iberian pig grazing among the groves of cork and holm
(Quercus Suber and Ilex) oak are a common sight, where in autumn
they feast on the falling acorns and the area is rich in visible
bird life with an important population of black vultures. Other
raptors are common and include the Golden, Short-toed and
Bonelli’s eagles. You can see stork’s nests on almost every
village church as well as the endangered black stork, and as you
wander along the streams, sightings of heron and egrets are
common.
Andalucía
suffered acutely during “La epoca negra” – the black period
– or simply “el hambre” -the hunger - during the 1940’s
and 50’s, after the Spanish Civil War, forcing mass emigration
to larger cities and abroad to find work to support their
families. In La Sierra some opted to join the smuggling trade and
become “Mochileros” – packmen. It was a tough and risky
business carrying up to 30kgs in homemade backpacks with rope for
straps from the Portugese border village Barrancos into the Sierra
to be then moved down to Sevilla. Organised by smuggling bosses,
the mochileros would carry loads of the three main staples beans,
coffee and tobacco over 100 km in a 24 hr period. Empty mule
trains would be used along the wider paths to distract the Guardia
Civil – Border Police – whilst the Mochileros would use the
higher, rockier paths to stealthily enter La Sierra and deliver
their goods to places such as La Posada in Alájar where hiding
places where provided until the goods were moved on. The
Sevillanos to this day insist that Portugese coffee is the worse
to be had!
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Travel
Information
The
most convenient airport to fly to is Seville. This holiday is offered on a
land only basis as we are unable to sell Ryanair flights and they offer
the best direct flight options from Stansted, Liverpool and Bristol.
Easyjet also fly from Gatwick and Vueling fly from Heathrow to Seville direct.
Travelling
from Seville to Aracena can be done in 2 ways. Either pre book a taxi with
Sherpa (to be paid locally – approx. 125 Euros for up to 4 passengers)
or take a taxi from the airport to Seville bus station (approx 25 Euros)
and then a bus to Aracena (approx 8.50 Euros). The bus departs at 09.00 and
16.00 and takes 1˝ hrs. The vehicles used are comfortable air conditioned
coaches.
(There
is a bus from the airport into Seville but it goes to a different bus
station to the one you require for the bus to Aracena. If you take this
bus you will need to take a taxi to Plaza de Armas bus station.)
At
the end of the 9-day or 7-day tours you can either pre-book a taxi for the
return journey or take the bus from Alájar (06.45 or 14.15) or
Fuenteheridos (07.15 or 16.35).
The bus arrives in Seville at 09.05 or 18.20 and will allow you to get to
the airport in time for flights after 12.00 and 21.00. The costs for the
return journey are the same as the outward travel. Bus times vary on
Sundays.
Level of Difficulty
The
tour is graded moderate; the terrain is not difficult but there are some
ascents and descents.
Fitness:
The walking should present no difficulty to
anyone in good general health who is accustomed to hiking.
Waymarks:
The itinerary follows well-used footpaths, mule tracks, unsurfaced forest
roads and occasional short stretches of tarmac roads. Signposting and
waymarking is intermittent so it is necessary to be able to use a
topographic map in conjunction with our specially researched and written
route notes.
Baggage Transfers
On
the days that you walk on to new accommodation (days 2, 4, 5, 6 and 8)
baggage is transferred to the next night's stop.
General Information
Hotels:
The
hotels described are our usual choice of accommodation, however if these
are not available then alternatives are used and if these are of a
different standard you will be informed at the time of booking.
Baths/showers:
Many rooms with ensuite/private facilities have a shower rather than a
bath, usually because of limited space. Some hotels/guesthouses may
however have a separate room in the house where a bath is available to
guests.
Breakfast:
In countries such as Spain breakfast is usually coffee and
toast/bread/croissant, if you want more for breakfast then we would
suggest you purchase some food the night before.
Special
Dietary Requirements: It is important for
you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your
holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.
Single Supplements:
are payable on most of our tours. The
single supplement guarantees the privacy of your own room, however, rooms
can at times be small and in some places may not enjoy the same facilities
as double/twin rooms.
Solo Traveller Supplements:
are payable when the cost per bag of moving luggage increases.
Language:
When travelling in less frequented
areas you will not necessarily come across people speaking English.
Remember you are experiencing a different culture, buy a phrase book and
try to learn a little of the local language!
Luggage:
When staying in hotels, sometimes your
luggage will have been taken to your room awaiting your arrival. However
don’t be surprised if your luggage is waiting for you to take it up to
your room. Please politely ask someone if you need assistance.
Route
Notes: Please note that one set of route
notes per room booked is included in the cost of the holiday. If you
require more sets of notes then there is a charge of Ł25 per set ordered.
Insurance:
All
clients must have appropriate cover for the activities included for the
duration of our trip.
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Outline
Itinerary
Below
is the itinerary for the 9-day holiday. The 7-day holiday misses the last
two nights, ending in Fuentheridos on the morning of day 7 after breakfast.
q Day
1: Arrival in Aracena. Time
permitting a wander around this lively market town, a visit to the
“Gruta de las Maravillas (“cave of wonders”) and a guided tour
around the Jamón museum will give you some insight on the journey you are
about to undertake.
q Day
2: Along the old mule motorway of centuries past through cork oak
forests you will reach the delightful town of Linares. Here the
intricately patterned stone thresholds and beautifully preserved fountain
– lavadero are worth visiting before heading towards the deserted
village of Los Madrońeros and Alájar beyond, where your well earned
dinner awaits you at La Posada.
Alájar is an arabian word roughly translated to Jewel and some say that
this village is the jewel of the Sierra.
q Day
3: A choice of 2 circular
walks: A 3 hour walk gently climbing the sierra behind the village to take
in the views, visiting the hermitage and through the impressive chestnut
forests. Or following the picturesque stream south through a dramatic
valley with superb rock formations opening out into the woodlands of cork
and holm oaks (5.5hrs).before returning back for a delicious 3 course meal
at La Posada.
q Day
4: Leaving Alájar we head west towards Almonaster along the stream
valley populated with oleander, poplar and ferns, passing through several
small villages on the way. Almonaster boasts an interesting Islamic
history with a beautiful tiny 9th-century mosque (the only
rural mosque preserved in Spain) well worth a detour.
q Day
5: Climbing the second highest peak in the Sierra we head up and north
towards Galaroza surrounded by sweet chestnut forest abound with wild
peonies in Spring, enjoying marvelous views towards the coast and inland
and the Templar castle of Cortegana dominating the skyline (6hrs). Make
your way to the top of the village where you will find your aparthotel.
q Day
6: Again heading north you will walk through cork and holm oak forests
before dropping down into a medieval village. Heading south you will walk
along a delightful river valley through another typical white village
before gently dropping into the lively village of Fuentheridos (6hrs).
q Day
7: A circular route that takes in the highest village in La Sierra,
Castańo, through ancient chestnut forests that abound with wild flowers
in spring and are ablaze with colour in autumn (5hrs).
q Day
8: The final walk takes us through pretty plantations of citrus,
quince, pomegranate and strawberry trees. The climb over the sierra is
well worth the vistas on your way. Down into Linares and then the final
pull to return back to Alájar for your final night (5hrs).
q Day
9: Depart Alájar after breakfast.
Extend
your trip with a night in Seville:
Include a day and night in evocative Sevilla. Discover the wonders of this
beautiful city from its Roman and Arabian heritage to modern day. Wander
the maze of tiny streets stopping of at bars and cafés on the way.
Accommodation
& Meals
6
or 8 nights bed and breakfast, together with 2 evening meals on nights 2
and 3 in Alajar. Evening meals on other days can be taken at your choice
of restaurant. Supplies for picnic lunches can readily be purchased each
day.
Night
1
in Aracena. You will be staying in a recently converted mill, which has
been tastefully decorated in a rustic style with wonderful little touches.
Nights
2, 3 & 8: In Alájar
you stay at La Posada, a small family run 18th century Inn renovated to offer a homely and comfortable stay.
If staying here you can use the pool at the Posada de San Marco as below.
NB:
It is possible to upgrade accommodation in Alájar to
the low impact environmentally
friendly Posada
de San Marco, which has an attractive patio and garden with an outdoor
swimming pool.
Night
4: Almonaster.Tonight
you stay at a 2 star family run hotel, which also has a restaurant.
Night
5: Galaroza.
You stay at the top of the village in a 2 star aparthotel with lovely
views across the sierra and with its own restaurant and swimming pool.
Nights
6 & 7: Fuenteheridos.
Just below the church you will find your accommodation in a comfortable
and friendly family run hostal.
Extra
night in Seville: Spend
a night in a 2 star hotel in the centre of the old Jewish Quarter
“Barrio Santa Cruz”.
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