From the small unassuming town of Fornaci di Barga we enter the Apuane forests, climbing up through chestnut woods and dropping down through vineyards to the ancient village of Verni. Here we enter an impressive series of limestone massifs that rise up to 2000m within a few kms of the sea, the Apuanes are famous for their scenery of white marble towers, abysses and the largest cave system in Italy. En route to Trassilico (732m) we stumble across remote chapels, and abandoned farms. We climb Monte Forato (1223m) visit the ‘Grotta del Vento’ with its subterranean lakes and ‘living’ stalagmites and stalactites. From Fornovolasco there is a long day to make the optional ascent of Pania della Croce (1860m), the view from the summit is quite magnificent. Before dropping down to the old hermitage at Calomini and back to Fornaci.
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Your Accommodation
Accommodation in the Apuane Alps is generally of a more simple standard than one might expect in the more popular parts of Tuscany. It is however clean and comfortable.
We spend our first and last night in Fornaci di Barga at a centrally located modern 3* hotel. Then a small pension in the village of
Verni which was once a Roman colony. The pension has a terrace with a wonderful view of Trassilico.
Our next three nights are spent in Fornovolasco at a typical small unclassified hotel, the rooms are simply furnished and share a bathroom.
The penultimate night is spent at the Eremo di Calomini, an ancient hermitage site carved into rock walls, now converted into charming unusual rooms and a superb restaurant.
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