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 India: Stok Kangri and Ladakh

Tour code: ISK
Revised:
December 2007

 
This trip takes us to Ladakh, a culturally and geologically fascinating region on the borders of Tibet. Geologically we are in the Trans Himalaya where the Indian sub-continent submerged below the Asian crust some 60 million years ago to create the world's youngest mountain chain. The peaks that form the back-bone of Ladakh fall within the Zanskar range and comprise a geographically rugged region with altitudes in the valleys rarely below 3000m and many mountains over 6000m. It is here, south of the River Indus near Leh, that we find the trekking peak of Stok Kangri at 6114m.

Alongside the complicated geology, complex civilisations have risen and fallen over the last two thousand years. Buddhism spread across these mountains from India several hundred years ago. By the 15th century Ladakh was geographically and politically considered part of the western Tibetan empire, with Leh being the capital. The town and its outposts subsequently became an important centre for lamaistic Buddhism as well as a strategic trading centre for the markets of Central Asia.

Since the closure of the Chinese border in 1949, Ladakh has gone through a series of major upheavals. Now administratively part of Jammu and Kashmir, the area around Leh is still the cultural heartland with many forts, palaces and monasteries reflecting its Buddhist heritage. We base ourselves in Leh (3550m) for this short but challenging trek through the valleys and across the high passes to the peak of Stok Kangri.

To assist with acclimatisation and to maximise the benefit of our time in this remote region we spend a couple of days exploring the local area, visiting historic palaces and monasteries and making sure we stretch our legs! We then follow the Indus upstream to a small village near Hemis to begin our trek. It is a short (8 day) but challenging trek to Stok Kangri. En route to the base of our trekking peak we cross two smaller passes, the Shang La (4968m) and the Katho La (4907m) in preparation for the ascent. These are tough ascents and descents but not technical. The maximum altitude of the trek is 5260m with the optional Stok Kangri peak being 6114m in height. The walking is suitable for those who have trekked at high altitude before and are confident of their ability and fitness. The trek culminates with an attempt on the peak of Stok Kangri, which is entirely optional and, of course, weather dependent. We have an extra day in hand at the end of the trek in case of inclement weather conditions. The ascent depends upon leg and lung power and naturally, a good dose of positive mental energy! If you don't wish to attempt the peak, for whatever reason, there is no pressure to do so. There are plenty of excellent walks around the base camp including an optional excursion to the glacier for superb views of the mountain.

We fly to and from Leh using on a domestic flight from Delhi which takes about 80 minutes flying time.


Grade

Challenging Plus. Although the walking is generally straightforward this is a demanding trek at high altitude in a remote region, even without attempting the peak. You should be confident of your fitness at this altitude and have had previous experience of similar heights.  The peak itself is not technical but you should be familiar with the use of ice axes and crampons in case they are needed as we cross snow fields.

Altitude: Average altitude about 4130m; maximum 5260m with peak of 6114m. 2 acclimatisation days around Leh and 8 days of walking.


Weather

Ladakh is one of the driest regions in India. Leh only receives an average 110mm of rain a year and heavy snowfall is rare. However, the area south of the Indus and nearer the mountains attracts more rainfall and heavy snowfall in winter. Even in summer months, the occasional storm tracks across the region bringing snow to the highest ground. Generally, the weather is good with dry, warm and sunny days up to 30-35deg and cool to cold nights depending on the altitude. The sun is always very strong and you should be prepared for this. Although the region is high altitude desert, summer storms can occur and you should be prepared for the possibility or rain and/or snow especially at high altitude.

Escorted Departure Date

ISK25 Friday 25 July - Sunday 10 August


What’s Included

Included: Accommodation Delhi: The Oberoi Maidens Hotel. Situated close to the city centre, this hotel is fully air-conditioned and has a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Accommodation in Delhi and Leh is on a B&B basis whilst on trek all meals are provided. Guided tours where specified in your itinerary.

Not Included: Visa fees, passports or vaccinations.  Excursions unless stated. Entry fees to historical monuments. Optional jeep ride to Khardong La. Hotel porterage or tips. Meals and drinks other than those stated. Travel Insurance.


Documents

If you are applying for an Indian visa by post, the Indian High Commission requires up to five weeks to process your application, so ensure that you submit your application in good time. Also note, however, that Indian visas are only valid for six months from the date of issue, and therefore must not be applied for too early.  This means you will have to have left India within six months of issue of the visa. 


Health Matters

A full medical kit accompanies the trek, but we recommend that people carry their own small personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents will be included in the pre-departure information as well as more general information on vaccinations. You will need to consult your doctor usually 5 weeks prior to departure, to work out an immunisation schedule relevant to your destination country. The following should be used as a guideline only: - Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Malaria, and Meningitis. More details concerning vaccinations are given in our Indian pre-department that is forwarded to you on confirmation of your booking.


P
ersonal Expenses

The amount of money you take with you depends on how much you intend to spend! Souvenir purchases aside, a sum of £130 or $200 should cover any extra costs, although it would be wise to take a little more, as you will invariably be tempted by the very attractive handicrafts of the region.  Main meals in cities such as Delhi at the very best restaurants are inexpensive. Dinner will cost between £7-£13. Bring duty free drinks, as spirits are costly! Wines are not of a high standard and beers are usually £1 per bottle. Sterling travellers cheques are easily exchanged in the major hotels and banks. Most hotels and some shops in the big cities accept credit cards such as American Express and Mastercard.


Insurance

You must have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities you will be participating in, including trekking at altitude, mountain biking, climbing and white-water rafting if applicable.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Whilst every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, and local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for changes. Mark Butterworth will do everything in his power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events.  Timings given are approximate.


Books

The Arts of India: Cornell University Press

India File: Trevor Fishlock

Trekking in the Indian Himalaya: Lonely Planet

India Travel Survival Kit: Lonely Planet.


Outline Itinerary

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary.

Note: if circumstances dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.

Day 1: Fly to New Delhi.

Day 2: Delhi. Arrive Delhi in the early morning and you will be met and transferred by taxi to your hotel. In the afternoon there is a guided tour of Delhi.

About Delhi: Delhi basically is 7 cities all merged into one and laced together by the new city of the British Raj, designed by Lutyens & Baker. It was one of the boldest expressions anywhere in the world of British Imperial ambitions and has endless sightseeing possibilities. Our tour of Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, at the site where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated, the Red Fort, once the most lavish fort and palace of the Mughal Empire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m high tower of victory.

RED FORT. This imposing monument to the rule of Shah Jahan was begun in 1639 and completed in 1648, taking its name from the red sandstone used in its construction. It is said to have cost 10 million rupees to build, much of it spent on the opulent marble royal palaces within. Here the Emperor exercised his divine authority in the Halls of Public and Private Audience - seated in the latter on the fabulous gold-canopied Peacock Throne that was inlaid with a vast number of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

THE QUTB MINAR. The Qutb Minar is a soaring tower of victory that was built in 1193.  The tower has three distinct stories each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. Today this impressive ornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkably well.

Day 3 We make an early start for the spectacular flight from Delhi to Leh. At 3505m the transition in altitude from Delhi is considerable – it is important to acclimatise slowly to the change and not to rush about on arrival. The afternoon will be at leisure giving you time to adjust and to gently explore the town.  Stay in the Kang Lhha Chen Hotel, one of the best hotels in Leh but simple by western standards.

Days 4/5 To continue the acclimatisation process we spend two fascinating days exploring in and around Leh. Located at the cultural crossroads of the sub-continent, the area has a dynamic history of spiritual migration, traceable to the 3d century BC. Buddhist influences eventually dominated and the Tantric sage Padmasambhava is said to have wandered the mountainous trails in the 8th century. In subsequent years an era of trading began, Leh’s prosperity developing rapidly as a result of is location below the Khardong La, the gateway of the infamous route to Yarkland in Turkistan. The town’s importance was reflected by the building of a royal residence on Namgyal Peak in the sixteenth century followed by the construction of the Royal Palace by Sengge Namgyal a hundred years later. Little really changed until the borders with China and Tibet were closed in 1949. To give us a better understanding of this history we visit a number of key sites in and around Leh. On Day 4 we drive to Shey palace, the old capital and former home of Ladakhi royalty before taking in Tikse, one of the most impressively situated gompas (or monasteries) in the region. Later in the day we visit Hemis monastery, famous for its annual festival. On Day 5 we explore (on foot!) some of the sights around Leh, including the ruined palace on Namgyal Peak, Sankar Gompa and the Japanese influenced Shanti Stupa.  Hotel.

Day 6 Our adventure begins as we follow the Indus by road to Martselang (3414m), near Hemis, for the start of our trek. We descend from the village to enter the gorge of Martselang river and the trail then criss-crosses the valley through the narrow gorge before climbing steadily towards the confluence with the Shang river. This is a good introductory day of walking to start our trek and we camp near the lovely village of Shang (3780m). Perched high above the trail is the old gompa which presides over the timeless landscape of the valley. Camping.

Day 7 A great day of walking through traditional the Ladakhi landscapes of the upper Shang valley. As we leave the village the valley narrows and the trail becomes steeper. We reach the seasonal grazing meadows  (or doksa) of Shang Phu (4237m), marked by juniper and a small shrine. Just above here the Shang river meets a side stream and we follow this tributary to the campsite at the junction of two valleys. Here is another shepherd encampment known locally as a phu-lu. Camping.

Day 8 A tougher day as we cross our first pass. We follow the valley on the right, past scrub and wild flowers and make the steep but steady ascent to the top of the Shang La (4968m) – a good warm up for the days to follow. From the pass the views open up to include Stok and Matho Kangri peaks in front and Parcha Kangri behind. A short steep descent into the upper Marto basin is followed by a more relaxing walk to our camp near Gyang Poche (4145m). Camping.

Day 9 A shorter day, crossing small streams to the base of Matho La (4297m). The trail stays high on the hillside following a gradual incline. In the afternoon there is an optional hike along the slopes of the Kangri massif to altitudes of up to 5800m, if you are feeling keen. Again, there are stunning views of the Karakoram and distant Tibetan plateau. Camping.

Day 10 Another challenging day as the steep climb to the next pass begins early. Again, it is a tough but steady climb to the pass where we may be greeted with the cry of the wild snowcock. From the Katho La (4907m) Stok Kangri peak looms ahead. The descent is also sharp to begin with but then the gradient lessens as we reach the flower-strewn doksas. The pasturage of the Upper Matho is a huge area bisected with stream and dotted with simple stone shepherd huts. We camp in a basin with views of Gulep Kangri massif. Camping.

Day 11 We take a much-needed rest and acclimatisation day before the attempt on the summit tomorrow. The more energetic can attempt some of the nearby ridges or you can simply relax at the campsite. Camping.

Day 12 This is Summit Day which means a very early start (before dawn) to make the best of the snow conditions and weather. It will be a long day, at least 12 hours in length. The ascent is non-technical but does involve an exposed ridge and some snow, ice axes and crampons will be used to help with this, if necessary. Climbing up we switchback to the top of the ridge, then make the tough ascent to the moraine. A moraine and glacier walk leads to a scramble over loose rocks and the final 90minute push to the top. And what a magical view awaits! From the summit of Stok Kangri (6114m) a panorama of Himalaya extends in every direction – the Great Himalaya, the Ladakhi range, the Karakoram and the distant Tibetan Plateau. Visible peaks include Nun (7086m) and Kun (7132m) and on a very clear day K2 can be seen. After savouring our efforts, we head back to camp. For those not wishing to attempt the peak there are plenty of good walks with excellent views around the base camp. Camping.

Day 13 A wonderfully easy day returning down the Stok Valley to Stok. From the Lungkirmo meadows we follow the Mankyarmo river to its confluence with the Stok river. We then follow this trail down to the village past fields of barley, enclosed gardens and a few apricot orchards. We pass the jagged ruins of Staklang Khar fort, dating from the 13th or 14th century.  Time and inclination permitting we can look at some of the local history displayed in palace museum when we reach Stok. We then make the short drive back to Leh and a welcome hot shower and feast at our hotel. Hotel.

Day 14 A day to relax in and around Leh. There will be an optional jeep trip (payment locally) to Khardong La (5602m) the highest motorable road in the world. (Note: occasionally this day may be needed during the trek if weather conditions delay the ascent). Hotel.

Day 15 We take the early morning flight back to Delhi. If the flight is delayed for weather reasons we have a day in hand before attempting to fly tomorrow. On arrival in Delhi we transfer to the hotel then the afternoon is yours to enjoy sightseeing, shopping or at leisure in the hotel. Hotel.

Day 16 If not used during the trek, this will be a day at leisure in Delhi to explore, shop or relax at the hotel. Hotel.

Day 17 Arrive London.

   
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