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 India: The Valleys of Lahaul

Tour code: IFL
Revised:
December 2007

This trip is a great introduction to walking in the Himalayas. The trek takes us to a remote valley in the Lahaul region of Himachal Pradesh, which borders Zanskar and Tibet. Two rivers, the Chandra and the Bhaga, run through the Lahaul valley which is surrounded by the Great Himalaya to the north, the Pir Pinjal to the south and the Spiti ranges to the east. The monsoon has only a limited effect and the region is generally dry, although in the summer the irrigated valleys are green with grass, alpine flowers and seasonal crops including hops and seed potatoes.

Lahaul is culturally very different from the rest of Himachal Pradesh. The area has a strong Tibetan tradition and the monasteries, known as gompas, have rich collections of Buddhist art. This is a fairly easy trek into a beautiful, quiet area that is little visited by trekkers. The travel to and from the start of the trek offers spectacular mountain scenery, whilst on the walk itself we are treated to flowers, meadows, village hamlets and snow capped peaks.

Grade

Grade B. You should be reasonably fit but there are no really long day walks. However, for the more energetic there are many opportunities to explore the surrounding valleys. Please note that the valley is in a remote location and requires considerable travel on mountain roads to access it.


Climate

The best time to visit this area is in the summer, when day-time temperatures reach 20-25C and there is plenty of sunshine. Temperatures do get cooler of course the higher you climb up the valleys, though it will rarely reach freezing point.

You can expect occasional rain at the start of the trek in this region as it is affected by the monsoon, but after crossing over the Rohtang Pass and entering Lahaul you are in a high altitude desert where rain is unusual.

Although the departures are timed to coincide with good weather, please bear in mind that in any mountain area the weather is never wholly predictable and that you should be prepared for any adverse conditions.


Altitude

Maximum altitude 4,075m average 3,000m. Most of the paths on this trek are well maintained, being trade routes between the villages. At the top end of the valley there are only shepherds' paths to follow.


What’s Included

Accommodation Delhi: The Oberoi Maidens Hotel. Situated close to the city centre, this hotel is fully air-conditioned and has a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. B&B Delhi and Bannons Resorts in Manali. All meals on trek. Guided tours where specified in your itinerary. In Keylong and Mandi we use the best available tourist hotels.


Not Included

Visa fees, passports or vaccinations.  Excursions unless stated. Entry fees to historical monuments. Hotel porterage or tips. Meals and drinks other than those stated. Travel Insurance.


Documents

If you are applying for an Indian visa by post, the Indian High Commission requires up to five weeks to process your application, so ensure that you submit your application in good time. Also note, however, that Indian visas are only valid for six months from the date of issue, and therefore must not be applied for too early.  This means you will have to have left India within six months of issue of the visa.


Health Matters

A full medical kit accompanies the trek, but we recommend that people carry their own small personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents will be included in the pre-departure information as well as more general information on vaccinations. You will need to consult your doctor usually 5 weeks prior to departure, to work out an immunisation schedule relevant to your destination country. The following should be used as a guideline only: - Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Malaria, and Meningitis. More details concerning vaccinations are given in our Indian pre-department that is forwarded to you on confirmation of your booking.


P
ersonal Expenses

The amount of money you take with you depends on how much you intend to spend! Souvenir purchases aside, a sum of £130 or $200 should cover any extra costs, although it would be wise to take a little more, as you will invariably be tempted by the very attractive handicrafts of the region.  Main meals in cities such as Delhi at the very best restaurants are inexpensive. Dinner will cost between £7-£13. Bring duty free drinks, as spirits are costly! Wines are not of a high standard and beers are usually £1 per bottle. Sterling travellers cheques are easily exchanged in the major hotels and banks. Most hotels and some shops in the big cities accept credit cards such as American Express and Mastercard.


Insurance

You must have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities you will be participating in, including trekking, mountain biking, climbing and white-water rafting if applicable.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Whilst every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, and local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for changes. Your trek leader  will do everything in his power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events.  Timings given are approximate.


Books

The Arts of India: Cornell University Press.

India File: Trevor Fishlock.

Trekking in the Indian Himalaya: Lonely Planet.

India Travel Survival Kit: Lonely Planet.

Outline Itinerary

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary.

Note: if circumstances dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.

q     Day 1: FLY TO NEW DELHI

q     Day 2: DELHI. After clearing customs you will be met by our representatives) who will be holding a placard (with your name on it) and transferred by taxi to your hotel.  In the afternoon there is a guided tour of Delhi.

Delhi basically is 7 cities all merged into one and laced together by the new city of the British Raj, designed by Lutyens & Baker. It was one of the boldest expressions anywhere in the world of British Imperial ambitions and has endless sightseeing possibilities. Our tour of Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, the Red Fort, once the most lavish fort and palace of the Mughal Empire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m high tower of victory.

RED FORT. This imposing monument to the rule of Shah Jahan was begun in 1639 and completed in 1648, taking its name from the red sandstone used in its construction. It is said to have cost 10 million rupees to build, much of it spent on the opulent marble royal palaces within. Here the Emperor exercised his divine authority in the Halls of Public and Private Audience - seated in the latter on the fabulous gold-canopied Peacock Throne that was inlaid with a vast number of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

THE QUTB MINAR. The Qutb Minar is a soaring tower of victory that was built in 1193.  The tower has three distinct stories each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. Today this impressive ornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkably well.

q     DAY 3: TRAVEL BY TRAIN TO CHANDIGARH, THEN BEGIN DRIVE TO MANALI. You make an early morning transfer to the station for the morning Shatabdi Express, air conditioned train to Chandigarh. (Timings are usually 07.40 depart, arrive at 11.00 am.) The city, purpose-built in the 1950s as the new capital of the Punjab after Lahore was handed over to Pakistan, was largely designed by Le Corbusier. The result is not yet the forward-looking statement of faith in a modern Indian society it was designed to be, although for visitors it is a fascinating view of 1950's utopian town planning.

You are met on arrival in Chandigarh, then begin the drive to Manali, stopping in Mandi (approx 5 hours drive time) where you will stay tonight. Overnight Hotel.

q     DAY 4: CONTINUE DRIVE TO MANALI. (6,430ft/1,960m). The remaining 110km road journey should take about 4 hrs. The road winds upwards through the Kulu valley to Manali. There is time in the afternoon to explore and acclimatise. Overnight Hotel.

THE KULU VALLEY

The Kulu valley is one of the most enchanting parts of  Himachal Pradesh.  Through the Valley runs the Beas River, bordered by paddy fields in the monsoon and wheat fields in the winter.  Conifers and rhododendrons grow on the upper slopes which are covered by snow in winter.  To the northwest of the valley is the white mass of the Solang Valley and to the north is the  Rohtang Pass (4,075 meters (13,370 feet), the gateway to the Great Himalayas.  The road to Lahaul and Leh in Ladakh crosses the Rohtang Pass.

NB:  ALTERNATIVE TO DAY 3 & 4:  It is possible to fly from Delhi to Manali on day 3, and have a free day in Manali on day 4.  The supplement for this flight is £55.

q     DAY 5: DRIVE TO KEYLONG. (Approx 5 hour drive time). We follow the Leh Highway across the spectacular Rohtang Pass (3978m.) with impressive views of the Pir Pinjal and the Great Himalaya en route. Descending from the pass we cross the Chandrabhaga river and enter the Lahoul & Spiti district.  Beyond the reaches of the heavy summer monsoon, this is an area more akin to high altitude desert and contrasts markedly with the fertile alpine scenery we have left behind. We spend the night at Keylong (3350m), the districts' headquarters and time permitting can visit the 16th century Sha-shur gompa nearby.

q     Day 6: DRIVE TO UDAIPUR. (2800m) (Approximately 3 hour drive time) A brisk start after breakfast for the last stretch of our road journey along the dramatic Pattan Valley to Udaipur (2800m) with its unique wood carved Mrikula Devi temple of Hindu and Buddhist origin. Our trek now begins as we follow a jeep track from the edge of the town into a narrow rocky gorge, the entrance to the Miyar Nullah. A gradual steady climb brings us to the mouth of the gorge and the first village of Shakoli. We camp in woodland just beyond the village.

q     DAY 7: TREK TO CHAMRAT.  Our first full day of trekking in the valley. The landscape beyond here can feel timeless. The simple sturdy houses in the villages are built to withstand the forces of nature, both the hot sun of summer and the sub-zero snowy winter. Seasonal crops are grown in the tiny hand-cultivated fields, peas, barley millet and potatoes are the staples. Wildflowers adorn the field boundaries and paths indicating the diversity of the environment in which we walk. We cross the Miyar river to our campsite near the village of Chamrat.  (Approximately 4 hours walk)

q     DAY 8: TREK TO DOKSHA VIA CHALLING.   A morning's walk further up the valley lies Urgos with its gompa, or monastery. This area is actively Buddhist, and many of the intricate murals have been recently restored. The monastery is alive with bright colours and has an intimate atmosphere compared with the vastness of the scenery outside. Walking onwards in the afternoon we reach the small settlement of Doksha.  We camp for the night on a meadow. (Approximately 6 hours walk) Lunch en-route.

q     DAY 9: TREK TO TANPATTAM.  (3800m) As we trek higher up the valley we leave the last settlements behind and our only companions, apart from wild Yaks and the odd shepherd with their flocks of sheep and goat, are the observant but elusive marmots. We are now right under the great Himalayan range, with huge peaks towering above the valley.

q     DAY 10/11: CAMP TANPATTAM.  OPTIONAL WALKS TO EXPLORE THE SIDE VALLEYS.  A chance to explore the vast and uninhabited upper reaches of the Miyar valley.  We spend two days here, visiting the centuries old and now abandoned Tibetan Monastery, perched upon a high ridge overlooking the valley and one of the glaciated side valleys that feed into the Miyar Nullah.    (Approximately 6/7 hours walk per day).

q     DAY 12-: TREK TO ALPINE MEADOW.  Retracing our steps down the valley, we walk through a myriad of Himalayan flowers that dot the edges of cultivated fields.  Lunch en- route.  (Approximately 5 hours walk).

q     DAY 13-: TREK TO URGOS MONASTERY.  We take time to stop in villages where the villagers knit and sell brightly coloured woollen gloves before reaching our campsite near the Urgos monastery in Challing.  (Approximately 5 hours walk) Lunch en-route.

q     DAY 14-: TREK TO FOREST GLADE AND DRIVE TO KEYLONG (Approx 3-4 hours drive time). Our final day in this unique valley. We follow the mule track until we reach the forest glade where we will rejoin our transport and drive to Keylong.

q     DAY 15: DRIVE TO MANALI.  (Approx. 5 hours drive time.)  We set off for the return drive back over the Rohtang pass and into the alpine lushness of the Kulu Valley. We should arrive early afternoon all being well with the roads and traffic. There is time for some shopping in Manali and a meal in one of its many restaurants before we turn in.  Bannons Resorts Hotel.

q     DAY 16: DRIVE MANDI  (Approx. 4 hours drive time) After breakfast we drive by private transport to Mandi, leaving the mountains behind.   Overnight at the Visco Resort.

q     DAY 17: DRIVE TO DELHI.  (Approximately 11 hours drive time).  We start early and should arrive Delhi in the afternoon to check into your Hotel. The rest of day is yours to enjoy the sights, sounds and shopping in this colourful capital city.  Overnight hotel.

q     DAY 18: FLY DELHI – LONDON.  Early morning transfer to the Airport to board your return flight home.

   
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