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 India: Abode of the Gods (Himachal Pradesh, Northern India)

Tour code: IAG
Revised: December 2007

 
Overlooking Dharmsala and the Kangra valley in Himachal Pradesh lies Dharamkot (7,200ft/2,195m), home to the Butterworths whose family have lived in India for many generations. Dharamkot is a protected wildlife sanctuary and the base from which this trek is organised. The area is renowned for wildlife. In recent years a leopard killed the Butterworths' chickens! But besides leopards, there exist black bears, porcupine, various types of deer and mountain goats, langur and rhesus monkeys, jackals, pine marten, and the local equivalent of the yeti known as a Gye. The bird life is fantastic, ranging from a host of brightly coloured small species to parrots, griffon vultures, Lammergier, eagles and different types of forest pheasant. Mark has also personally catalogued 110 varieties of butterfly. Having grown up in India, Mark Butterworth has been operating treks in the Himalaya for a number of years. His ability to speak Hindustani and, the local Pahari dialect of the Gaddi shepherds, has proved invaluable when exploring remote and isolated regions of the Western Himalaya, and in discovering areas where the inhabitants have had little or no contact with people from western cultures. The experience he has gained from his travels has made it possible to share with others the customs and traditions of another culture and the adventure of walking in the Himalayas.

Home to the Gaddi people who live a semi-nomadic lifestyle, the Valley of the Goddess lies between the Dhaula Dhar range of mountains and the Kangra valley. It is an enchanting region of heavily wooded glades of pine, oak and rhododendron trees, green meadows and shrines dedicated to the Goddess Durga. The Gaddi shepherds migrate annually with their small flocks of sheep and goats in search of grazing areas, a search that will entail covering mountainous terrain and crossing high passes for six months of the year. A proud and hospitable people, the Gaddi shepherds are superstitious and devout worshippers of the Goddess Durga, whose name they invoke for protection against evil spirits and to ensure a safe journey over mountain passes. During the trek we camp close to Gaddi hamlets and sometimes share a campsite; visitors are always welcome. This trek also encompasses a visit to the Dalai Lama's present town of exile, an Indian rail journey (a fascinating experience in its own right!) and some time to glimpse a little of Delhi, India's teeming capital.

This is a very pretty trek in an unspoilt part of the Himalaya. You are unlikely to see any other Europeans. The village children do not beg and locals generally love having their photo taken. The spring trek enjoys a wealth of rhododendron: the locals collect the petals to make jam. 

Outline Itinerary

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary.

Note: if circumstances dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.

DAY 1: DEPART LONDON. Fly to Delhi.

DAY 2: ARRIVE DELHI. Sightseeing then transfer to overnight train. The flight arrives around midnight. Transfer to your Delhi hotel (for information on Delhi hotels please see the notes at the end of the itinerary). You check out at midday and in the afternoon we provide transport and an English-speaking guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Old and New Delhi. The heat, dust, sights and sounds of India's frenetic capital can be quite a culture shock! This is followed by an evening (approx. 19.00 hours) transfer to the railway station to board the express train to Pathankot, travelling in air-conditioned sleeper compartments. The express usually departs at 21.00 hours

About Delhi: Delhi basically is 7 cities all merged into one and laced together by the new city of the British Raj, designed by Lutyens & Baker. It was one of the boldest expressions anywhere in the world of British Imperial ambitions and has endless sightseeing possibilities. Our tour of Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, the site where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated, the Red Fort, a lavish former palace of the Mughal Empire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m high tower of victory.

RED FORT. This imposing monument to the rule of Shah Jahan was begun in 1639 and completed in 1648, taking its name from the red sandstone used in its construction. It is said to have cost 10 million rupees to build, much of it spent on the opulent marble royal palaces within. Here the Emperor exercised his divine authority in the Halls of Public and Private Audience - seated in the latter on the fabulous gold-canopied Peacock Throne that was inlaid with a vast number of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

THE QUTB MINAR. The Qutb Minar is a soaring tower of victory that was built in 1193. The tower has three distinct stories each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. Today this impressive ornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkably well.

DAY 3: ARRIVE PATHANKOT, DRIVE TO MC.LEOD GANJ. You are met on arrival of the train (at 07.20 hrs). A two and a half hour taxi ride takes you to McLeod Ganj (6,200ft/1,890m). You break your journey to have breakfast at Kotla. McLeod Ganj is home to a thriving Tibetan community, who settled here with the Dalai Lama in 1959. In the afternoon there is a sightseeing tour laid on for those that wish, otherwise the time is yours to explore the town or relax at the Hotel. Evening pre trek briefing. Overnight at the Hotel Tibet.

About Dharamsala & Mc.Leod-Ganj
Population approx. 20,000. Founded in 1855, it has one of the most spectacular settings for a Hill Station. It is built along a spur of the Dhaula Dhar range and varies in height from 4,500ft at the lower bazaar to 5,900ft at McLeod-Ganj. It is surrounded by trees and is set against a backdrop of peaks rising to over 15,600ft/4,755m on three sides. The great granite mountains almost overhang the town. Views are superb, not only of the mountains but also over the Kangra Valley and Siwaliks. There are two sections to the town, the upper part is McLeod Ganj and the lower is called Dharamsala. The distance between them is almost 10km by road from centre to centre but there is a shorter, steeper path that takes about 40 minutes to cover. In both there is a strong Tibetan influence. The Dalai Lama settled here after his flight across the Himalaya following the Chinese invasion of Tibet in October 1959. There is a monastery at McLeod Ganj, a short distance along from the Dalai Lama's residence, and a Library.
Dharamsala was one of the 80 hill stations established by the British between 1815 and 1847 though it was not on a par with Simla, Nainital and Mussoorie in terms of popularity and size. The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness (1860) is a short distance below McLeod Ganj on the way to Forsythganj. Along with other buildings in the area it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1905 but has been rebuilt. The 8th Lord of Elgin, one of the few Viceroys to die in office, is buried here. Apparently, it was his wish as it reminded him of his beloved native Scotland. There are some very attractive stained glass windows here and some fascinating tombstone inscriptions.

DAY 4: TREK TO GEHRA (6,000ft/1,829m). Approx. 5 hours walk. After breakfast you leave Mcleod Ganj behind and ascend into pine and rhododendron forest before reaching Dal Lake. The highest point of today's walk is just before Dal Lake at around 6,700ft/2,042m (not to be confused with the Kashmir lake!) for an early lunch. To continue our journey you pass several hamlets before descending towards Gehra, your first campsite. There is a chance to swim and rest tired feet in the nearby river. You may well see monkeys in this area.

DAY 5: TREK TO NOLI. (7,000ft/2,134m). Approx. 5 hours walk. Morning tea is brought to you first thing. After a leisurely breakfast, you make your way along winding shepherd trails, through a valley dotted with villages and cultivated terraces until you reach Kereri, a small village inhabited by Gaddi shepherds where you have lunch. Here there is a one hundred year old Forest Officer's bungalow. Built by the British, it was part of a system of local administration. Many villages have Water Buffalo and you may well see the men and women spinning and weaving wool. In the afternoon you have a gradual ascent through pine, oak and rhododendron forest to reach Noli, gateway to the domain of the Gaddi shepherds. Camp beside wooden bridge at Noli.

DAY 6: TREK TO THE BASE OF THE KERERI LAKE. (8,500ft). Approx. 6 hours walk. We strike camp at 8.30 am and continue deeper into the valley along a forest trail that leads you towards the Dhaula-Dhar mountains, having lunch en-route. In the afternoon you continue your ascent through pine and rhododendron forest until we reach our campsite.

DAY 7: TREK TO KERERI LAKE. (10,500ft/3,200m). Approx. 4 hours walk. You follow a forest trail on a gradual ascent through thick pine and bearded oak forest until you reach Kereri lake situated at the base of the Minkiani pass. This can be a long, challenging climb but there is no hurry. We camp at Kereri Lake. The afternoon is free to explore the surrounding high ridges that offer spectacular views of both the Kangra valley below and the Dhaula Dhar mountain range. There is a temple here just near the lakeside

DAY 8: TREK TO RHELLA. (8,000ft/2,438m). Approx. 5 hours walk. Today we continue our journey by crossing a ridge and making a steep descent (again there is no hurry) into an unspoilt valley. Here there is rhododendron and wild chestnut trees, green meadows with alpine flowers and clear mountain streams. We have lunch along the way before reaching Rhella, the next camping area.

DAY 9: REST DAY. Time to relax in the camp and go dipping in the nearby river, read or write diaries. There will be an optional walk in the afternoon.

DAY 10: TREK TO LAKA RIVER. (6,200ft) Approx. 6 hours walk. You follow in the footsteps of the Gaddi shepherds, winding your way down Rhella Valley and stop for lunch beside a river. We walk over intermediate ridges, before descending towards our campsite near Laka river. In the afternoon there is an optional walk to Guna temple, 7,000ft/2,134m, (approx 2 hours walk, there and back) a pilgrimage centre for the Gaddi shepherds. Sightings of the Goddess have been reported in this area and pilgrims travel great distances to offer their respects.

DAY 11: TREK TO TRIUND. (9,000ft/2,743m). Approx. 5 hours walk. A gradual climb past cultivated terraced fields and village hamlets brings us to Gullu ridge 7,500ft/2,286m, where you have lunch. A long afternoon walk takes you to Triund, situated at the foot of the Dhaula-Dhar range. You camp on a meadow with views of the peaks above and the Kangra valley below.

DAY 12: TREK TO LAKA. (11,000ft/3,353m). Approx. 4 hours walk. After breakfast a rocky trail leads you through pine forest in a steady ascent to Lake Got (11,000ft/3,353m), at the base of the Indra-Har pass (14,100ft/4,328m).

DAY 13: OPTIONAL WALK TO THE INDRA HAR PASS. WALK TO DHARAMKOT. (14,100ft/4,328m). An early morning start for those who want to climb the Indra Har pass. (Approx 4 hrs walk) From the pass you will be rewarded by views of the Pir Panjal Himalayas and Mount Kailash, the abode of Shiva. Packed lunch en route. In the afternoon we will walk to Dharamkot, (approx 3 hours walk) a protected nature reserve and home to the Butterworth family. This lies on a wooded ridge, with views up to the craggy peaks of the Dhaula Dhar ridge - the most beautiful perhaps being Moon Peak (15,100ft/4,604m). There are also very fine views across the Kangra valley. The protected status of the woods means that much of the wildlife is relatively tame; some very fine pheasants can be seen, including chir pheasant and Khalij pheasant. Accommodation will be in stone cottages or tents.

DAY 14: RETURN TO MCLEOD GANJ, VISIT TIBETAN CENTRES, THEN DRIVE TO PATHANKOT FOR TRAIN TO DELHI. There is a 1 hour walk down through the woods from Dharamkot to McLeod Ganj. The day is spent exploring the Tibetan handicrafts centre run by the Dalai Lama's sister. You will also visit the Tibetan children's' village, a refugee centre for homeless Tibetan children. You then drive back to Pathankot to catch the 17.45 overnight train back to Delhi.

DAY 15: ARRIVE DELHI. Early morning and transfer to your Delhi hotel. After breakfast at the hotel your bags will be left with the bell-captain and the morning is free to finish off any shopping or sightseeing. Rooms are available at the hotel from midday onwards allowing you time to rest before your flight.

DAY 16: FLY TO LONDON


Grade

Moderate: You should be reasonably fit. Please note that although in terms of altitude and number of days of consecutive trekking, this trek fits our own definition of 'moderate', it is however a remote trek using shepherd paths that are occasionally ill-defined and in places the ascents are a little tough. Nevertheless the days are usually of short duration and the pace of walking can be as relaxed as you like.


Climate

The best weather in this part of Himachal Pradesh is from October/November, with warm sunny days and pleasant nights. It can be quite hot during the day (up to 25°C) at lower altitudes and at higher altitudes (over 10,000ft) the temperature can drop to -1°C at night. In late March/April there is the added attraction to many of rhododendron in bloom. The monsoon season starts from Mid June until the end of September.
Although the departures are timed to coincide with good weather, please bear in mind that in any mountain area the weather is never wholly predictable and that you should be prepared for any adverse conditions.


Altitude

Maximum altitude 4,328m (optional); average 3,000m. Most of the paths on this trek are well maintained, being trade routes between the villages. At the top end of the valley there are only shepherds' paths to follow.


What's Included

Included: Accommodation Delhi: The 4 star Oberoi Maidens Hotel. Situated close to the city center, this hotel is fully air-conditioned and has a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. In McCleod Ganj we use the Hotel Tibet, a simple, clean comfortable accommodation and friendly service in one of the best local hotels.
TRAIN: We reserve air-conditioned sleeper compartments for the journey to and from Pathankot. The carriage will be either 1st or 2nd class air-conditioned.
MEAL PLAN: Bed and breakfast in Delhi and McLeod Ganj. Full board on trek.

Not Included: Visa fees, passports or vaccinations. Excursions unless stated. Entry fees to historical monuments. Hotel porterage or tips. Meals and drinks other than those stated. Travel Insurance.


Documents

If you are applying for an Indian visa by post, the Indian High Commission requires up to five weeks to process your application, so ensure that you submit your application in good time. Also note, however, that Indian visas are only valid for six months from the date of issue, and therefore must not be applied for too early. This means you will have to have left India within six months of issue of the visa.


Health Matters

A full medical kit accompanies the trek, but we recommend that people carry their own small personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents will be included in the pre-departure information as well as more general information on vaccinations. You will need to consult your doctor usually 5 weeks prior to departure, to work out an immunisation schedule relevant to your destination country. The following should be used as a guideline only: - Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Malaria, and Meningitis. More details concerning vaccinations are given in our Indian pre-departure information that is forwarded to you on confirmation of your booking.


Personal Expenses

The amount of money you take with you depends on how much you intend to spend! Souvenir purchases aside, a sum of £130 or $200 per person, should cover any extra costs, although it would be wise to take a little more, as you will invariably be tempted by the very attractive handicrafts of the region. Main meals in cities such as Delhi and Kathmandu at the very best restaurants are inexpensive. Dinner will cost between £7-£13. Bring duty free drinks, as spirits are costly! Wines are not of a high standard and beers are at least £1 per bottle. Sterling travellers cheques are easily exchanged in the major hotels and banks. Most hotels and some shops in the big cities accept credit cards such as American Express and Mastercard.


Insurance

You must have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities you will be participating in, including trekking, mountain biking, climbing and white-water rafting if applicable.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Whilst every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for changes. Mark Butterworth will do everything in his power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events. Timings given are approximate.


Books

Recommended is: Christina Noble's book 'Over the High Passes' gives a perfect description of the Gaddi people and this region: Publisher: FORTANA/COLLINS. ISBN 0-00-637350-X
Also see:
The Arts of India: Cornell University Press
India File: Trevor Fishlock
Trekking in the Indian Himalaya: Lonely Planet
India Travel Survival Kit: Lonely Planet

   
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