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Morocco: Toubkal Express

Tour code: MTE
Revised: 
October 2007

The Atlas mountain range in North Africa runs for 1,000 miles all the way from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. But It is just south of the great red city of Marrakech, the third largest town in Morocco, that the Atlas is at its most spectacular. In a tiny section of this chain, just nine miles long, is some of the most appealing mountain walking country anywhere. This is where the Toubkal Massif rises to a lofty 4,167 metres (13,672 feet), where there are fine ridge traverses, challenging scree slopes, and where remote Berber villages cling to the terraced hillsides and the terminal moraines of long vanished glaciers.

Here we will tackle the non-technical ascent of Toubkal taking the standard route via the south Col and North East ridge. This is a steep but straightforward and enjoyable ascent, with generally excellent views across the Atlas chain over to the Jebel Mgoun and the Jebel Sirowa. This tour is designed for people who do not have a lot of time on their hands, and we do offer a two week itinerary instead for those who want more time to complete a whole circuit of the region (see 'Jebel Toubkal Classic two week Trek' dossier MJT).

It is unlikely that acclimatization will be a big issue for most people on this trek especially as you have a bit of time to acclimatize at Oukaimedene and there is an ascent over the summit of Mount Oukaimeden 3273 m, before you begin the wind up to Mount Toubkal.

The life of the Berber people in this area often seems little affected by the many trekkers who come here. Nowadays some of the men carry mobile phones, but their women are still mostly off in the fields cutting and carrying huge loads of animal feed on their backs. These people have remained fiercely independent of government intervention for years, and only fairly recently have they allowed the authorities the concession of building little prefab village schools for the 7-13s. Berbers are fun filled people, famed for their hospitality. Although this has dimmed a bit through over familiarization with tourists, you should enjoy the rapport of guide, cook and muleteers.


Grade: Challenging

4 to 9 hours walking a day and up to a top altitude of 4167m. Most ascent gain in one day: 1061m. Basically the going is moderate to strenuous and rough underfoot; gravel paths and  scree slopes. The ascents of Toubkal and Oukaimden are  steep and tough; but fine for normal reasonably fit hill walkers. Altitude problems may effect some people on Toubkal, although our carefully managed trek itinerary enables most people to acclimatize very well for the final ascent.


Climate

Our tours to go trekking in the Jbel Atlas Toubkal region are between mid May and late September; outside these months there is a high chance of late or early snow obstructing high passes or peaks. Expect average daytime temperatures to vary between 15-35 C, depending upon altitude etc. There can, however seldom, be some grey skies, rain and even snow at the highest altitudes of the trek. Night time temperatures can vary from warm to cold. At the highest points, temperatures may drop below freezing overnight. The summit ascent will normally commence in near freezing temperatures during the early morning (Even colder with wind chill). Note that on occasion Marrakech ( at 475 metres)  has a heat wave and has recorded summer temps. Of approaching 50 C! Of course this is unusual and it is a dry heat, but it is possible. Such high temperatures are not found in the mountains where you will be at an altitude of around 1900m (Aremd).


Accommodation

2 nights bed and breakfast accommodation in Marrakech normally in the pleasant Hotel Foucauld boasting a good restaurant  (alcohol not available but can be brought in)  which on warmer days  serves a buffet on the hotel roof, overlooking  the majestic minaret of the Koutoubia  mosque. Rooms are simple ensuite.

In Oukaimeden you stay for 1 night in a Club Alpin Francais Hostel with multiple bunked rooms, there is a comfortable living room area. Warm water for showers, Beer and wine is available at reasonable prices.

In Tacheddirt, depending upon availability, you will stay either in the Kasbah, or in the (very basic) CAF refuge. No Hot water available.

On Toubkal, 1 night in the Toubkal (Neltner) Refuge in dormitory accommodation. Basic hot showers, but a busy site.

In Aremd you will stay in a simple restaurant Hotel for 2 nights during the tour on a full board basis. Rooms are simple hostel style, several  beds to a room. Some people decide to sleep on the terrace  on hot nights  under the  stars. Hot water is erratic, but the food is great!


Equipment & Clothing

In addition to a good pair of broken in (but not breaking down) walking boots, a 3 season sleeping bag, a fleece, sunglasses a hat and a couple of water bottles (with water purification) are essential. The sun can be excessively strong, and cotton long sleeved shirts and Sunbloc are very important. A detailed list of recommended clothing and equipment is included in our pre-departure information, which is sent with confirmation of your reservation. Also bring with you books and games; you have plenty of time to use them!


Food

All food is included whilst on trek. In Marrakech you will be staying on a Bed and breakfast basis.

The food that you will eat is very healthy on trek, including Couscous, Tagine, olives, sardines, nuts and fruit; but there is generally little meat. Please decide as soon as possible once you arrive on trek whether you are going to be a vegetarian. This however is not normally a problem for our Berber cook crew, as apart from the fish (Tuna and Sardines) often served at lunch time with vegetable salad; there is not normally a lot of meat and when meat is available separate dishes such as vegetarian tagine, can always be prepared. Many people bring their own treats and food supplements if they have special dietary requirements. It is very difficult or impossible to get a lot of common western items actually once on trek, but things are improving.

Average lunch or dinner costs are about 60-100 Dirhams without drinks. * £1=16 Dirhams approx.

Soft drinks cost between 5 Dirhams and about 10 Dirhams for a Coke. Freshly squeezed orange juice is also highly recommended 5 D - 7D and only 3 D in the Djema el Fna. Berber tea varies between 2 - 9 D. Small bottle of Flag beer (available in only a very few places: 15 –22 Dirhams).

*Alcoholic beverages are normally impossible to obtain out of the big towns and even then are not particularly good by Western standards. We really recommend making use of your duty free allowance to obtain your favourite tipple. Remember that if you belong to an E.C. country, USA, Aus or NZ then when you fly to Morocco, you are entitled to duty free shopping.


Tipping

Rather like in Nepal (if you have been) the Berbers expect a tip for good service. We do stress this is voluntary, but more and more they see it as part of their income. On the last night on trek your leader will quietly encourage you to make some kind of presentation; any monies or material items will be gratefully received and shared between the crew.

Local Customs and Laws

In Morocco, access to Mosques and holy places is forbidden to non-Muslims.  A few exceptions are the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, the Mohammed V Mausoleum in Rabat, the Moulay Ismail  Mausoleum at Meknes and the Moulay Ali Cherif Mausoleum at Rissani.

Homosexuality is considered a criminal offence in Morocco.  Sexual relations outside marriage are also punishable by law and there have been a number of arrests in 2007.

Avoid provocative clothing.

Accept mint tea when offered, it is a sign of hospitality

Avoid drinking, eating and smoking in public in daytime during the period of Ramadan

If you want to photograph somebody, don't forget to ask for permission.

Outline Itinerary

The following itinerary is intended as a working guide and is subject to variation as a result of weather, local conditions and group progress. We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) any trek at any time if necessary.

Local time: GMT-1 BST AND GMT as British winter time..

Note below that ascents and descents are accumulative   on each day.

q       Day 1: Arrive Marrakech.  Wednesday (see below under Escorted departures’) depart Gatwick for the flight to Marrakech. The included flights are with G.B Airlines. But you can make use of Easyjet or Ryan Air flights  (lower cost) if you are a ‘LandOnly’ Customer. Transfer to the Hotel Foucauld. Land Only Customers will need to make their own way to hotel (15 mins by taxi). Lunches and dinners are not included in Marrakech, but you might like to eat the popular buffet dinner at the hotel for around 110 Dirhams, or take advantage of  other restaurants around the ‘Djema el Fna’, the famous central square.

q       Day 2: Drive Marrakech to Oukaimeden. Morning or lunchtime departure and drive across the Haouz plain and up to Oukaimeden (2,668m). Enroute, from the dusty scrub, palm, citrus and olive plantations, you pass through a landscape that supports a thriving rural community, as their extensive cultivations and terraced fields indicate.  This has been the result of centuries of laborious irrigation by the Berbers. Oukaimeden mixes the traditional and modern. Hotels and microwave antenna jostle with stone built Berber huts and food shacks. This is Morocco’s premier Ski resort in winter, but when you visit it there will probably be sheep and goats grazing on the ski runs. The settlement is interestingly placed on an extensive terrace, fashioned by rock strata and scouring glacial action… A rather incongruous settlement.

We stay at the licensed Club Alpin Francais (CAF). Beer and wine is available at your own expense. Dinner is prepared by your Berber ground crew. There is dormitory bunk accommodation; usually good warm showers and a living room. The building is under French management.

q       Day 3: Oukaimeden to Tacheddirt  Leaving Oukaimeden we have the choice of either contouring round the grassy valley of Assif-a-Ait Irene or, for the more experienced, a steep ascent of Jbel Oukaimeden (3273m) (2.5hrs). There are great views from here over to Toubkal, the serrated massif of Angour and the Imighilene Valley.  After a break on the top, there is a long rocky and scree descent to a small azib (grassy area with a spring) perhaps you will be offered mint tea there? Then a track walk to reach the Tizi-nou Addi pass (2957m). From the Tizi there is a steep descent through crags to the classic Berber village of Tacheddirt, here we stay either at the Refuge (alot simpler than the CAF last night) or at the refurbished Kasbah.  Ascent: 987m / Desc 1164m.  5-6 hours approx.

Day 4: Tacheddirt  to Aremd From Tacheddirt we walk around the terraced valley, under a huge circle of mountains, until we start to ascend up to the pass called the Tizi – n – Tametert (2279m). This is a great view point, back over Mount Oukaimeden, and forwards down to Imlil. At the pass you can usually get soft drinks from a tiny shack. From here we descend through a small pine forest into the terraces skirting Imlil and then up to the Berber town called Aremd. The terraces are often occupied by Walnut trees, walnuts being a great cash crop, thrashed out of the trees in September by villagers with long sticks. This actually stimulates the growth of new buds  for the next spring. Aremd  seems to grow out of the ice melt breached terminal moraine that it occupies. It is then a short  cross over to the hotel. Views of Toubkal from the terrace. Ascent: 300 metres / Descent 600m. 5 hours approx.

Day 5:  Aremd to Toubkal Hut.  After breakfast we begin the walk up the  broad Ighighayene Valley. We then  cross the Valley and start the  steep, but  well graded mule track ascent up to the Toubkal  refuge (Also known as the Neltner  refuge after the  first  man to  climb Toubkal In 1923). On the way there is a drink stop at  a little touristy village on the river called Sidi Chamharouch. This is a sacred site. ‘Sidi’ means a saint, so Saint Chamharouch came to the area to bathe. There is a big white washed rock marking the place, and muslim pilgrims come here still to bathe in the waters…They probably wouldn’t if they realized that ‘everything‘ from the Toubkal Hut comes down this way!  Continue up to the Toubkal Hut. Dormitory accommodation, usually very busy, but there is a warm lounge area and limited warm showers.  Ascent: 1200m / 5 hours approx.

q      Day 6: The ascent of Jbel Toubkal (4167m) & return to Aremd.  At dawn we start to stagger up the peak. The ascent takes about three and a half hours from the refuge and we aim to be back at the Toubkal refuge for our picnic lunch. We make an early morning (around 05:30) rising traverse over grass and rocks, then a short scree scramble up to the base of the South Cwm. We continue the ascent to Tizi-n-Toubkal (3941m), and then traverse a rising crest to the summit plateau. The ascent of Toubkal is at times tiring, but not technically difficult. From the top there is normally an unobstructed view in every direction over craggy peaks, sweeping to the Jebel Sirowa 50 km away, far in the south, the Mgoun to the East and the Jebel Sahro to the south east.  The village of Aremd can be seen over 2000 metres below. Return to Toubkal hut  for lunch, then limp  back down the valley to our accommodation in Aremd, and perhaps  a celebratory tagine and some cokes! Note that today is hard on the knees! Ascent: 1093m.  Descent:  2250m. Approx: 9 hours.

q      Day 7: Aremd to Imlil (transport to Marrakech). Walking down to Imlil, a mid-morning (Descent:  200m, 45 mins). Probably time for an orange juice before the drive brings us back to Marrakech and the Hotel Foucauld. Afternoon at leisure. It is well worth spending some time in the Djemaa-El-Fna, the busy main square of Marrakech, and the souks for last minute shopping. Particularly good are the products that are made of wood and leather, but you will find plenty of interesting items including ceramics, musical instruments, dates and walnuts. You could visit the other attractions such as the Saadian tombs and maybe if you still have clothes to look smart (ish) in, attempt to get into the famous Mamoumia Hotel for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that Sir Winston Churchill often stayed in, and is still, by world standards, excellent.

Lunch and dinner today is at your expense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, which at night takes on vibrance and personality that is unique in the World, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners eat in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smoking up) the place. The advantage of the place is that you can actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it if necessary. Otherwise try to book a restaurant for perhaps a celebratory group meal. Note that very few places do alcohol in the city.

q      Day 8:  Depart Marrakech, most flights are quite early in the morning, but our hotel can cope with basic breakfast arrangements for early departures. Land only customers will need to make their own way to the airport. If you have a later flight, you can have more time to explore the city and do some more shopping. Transfer to the airport (15 minutes) and Fly Marrakech to London Gatwick (Note that most the duty free shops sell items in Euros or Dollars, although if you do have a few Dirhams left the airport cafes will serve you drinks for them).


Escorted dates 2008

Wed 21 May – Wed 28 May

Wed 11 June – Wed 18 June

Wed 24 Sept – Wed 1 Oct.

 

   
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