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Grade
This
trip and its trek have been graded Moderate - Challenging, and
should present few problems to those who are fit and active. The
trek does, nevertheless, feature passes of 4,200m and 4,000m, and a
few long ascents and descents. 6 or 7 hours trekking per day,
approximately.
Climate
Peru
is located entirely within the tropics, but the climate varies
significantly according to season and geography.
Coast: May to October, damp and misty but very little rain.
Average day/night temperature in Lima 20°C / 13°C. December to
March, warm and sunny.
Highlands: May to October, sunny days and chilly evenings.
Best time for walking in the mountains. Average daytime
max/night-time min temperatures in Puno are approximately 18°C /1°C,
in Cusco 21°C /3°C, and in Arequipa 26ºC /7ºC.
Note that at the higher altitudes, temperatures can drop below
freezing pre-dawn. Note also that the highland sun is very strong.
December
to March, rainy season.
Included
Return
flights to Lima (air travel clients only), tour leader throughout
the trip (except if you have booked the package including local
guides only), all flights, ground transport and transfers while
in Peru, all accommodation as per itinerary, breakfasts throughout
the tour, fully-inclusive trek including all meals, local guide and
porters to transport luggage.
Not
Included
Insurance,
vaccinations, meals other than those mentioned above (budget £6 per
meal excluding drinks), any personal spending, airport taxes ($45 to
cover international departure tax and domestic tax for 3 internal
flights), any optional excursions.
Accommodation
Hotel
accommodation in towns is usually in twin rooms with private
facilities. On Taquile Island, we stay in basic family
accommodation. When camping on trek, we use two-person mountain
tents. Meals are prepared by our local cook.
Altitude
Shortness
of breath is normal when first arriving at altitude.
Acclimatisation time has been built into this itinerary.
The highest point on the trek is 4,200 metres, but our highest camp
is at 3,800m. At Puno and Taquile, we sleep at 3,830m.
Visas
A
visa is not currently required by UK citizens visiting Peru, but
your passport should be valid for at least six months after your
date of travel. Non-British passport holders should check their visa
requirements with their local Peruvian Consulate. All requirements
are subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.
Vaccinations
We
recommend up to date diphtheria, polio and tetanus
or tetanus booster. These three are effective for ten years.
Yellow
fever if
you are going to lowland jungle areas (not effective until ten days
after inoculation; not recommended for pregnant women). This is also
effective for ten years.
Anti-malarial
protection
(if going on a jungle trip below 1,500 metres; not needed for
high-altitude treks). Peru has chloroquine-resistant strains of
malaria and it is important that you follow the prophylactic regime
carefully. In the UK phone the Malaria Reference Laboratory (tel:
0891 600 350) for the latest information. North Americans should
contact the Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta (tel: 404 332
4559). Ensure that you consider avoidance of bites too and pack
repellent and long loose clothes.
‘Havrix’
for Hepatitis A. The course of two injections protects you
for ten years. Gamma globulin is cheaper but less effective.
Typhoid
vaccine is recommended by some doctors although it will not provide
total protection and being careful about what you eat and drink is
your best defence. It is given in two shots, four weeks apart and
lasts for three years. Unless at exceptional risk, people over the
age of 35 who have received four or more courses of typhoid
immunisation need no more.
A
pre-exposure rabies vaccination is worth considering if you
are going to be in contact with animals or more than 24 hours away
from a reliable source of vaccine. Hikers are at some risk from
rural dogs, certain of which carry rabies, and those visiting
coastal or rainforest areas could be exposed to rabid bats.
Personal
Expenses
For
your own personal expenses we recommend you carry funds in US
dollars cash (mixed denomination, unmarked and undamaged bank notes)
to change into local currency. We also recommend you carry a cash
card, as a variety of ATM (‘hole-in-the-wall’)
machines
are available in Lima, Arequipa, Puno and Cuzco. Credit card
purchases often incur a fee.
Regarding
US dollar travellers cheques: These can be changed in larger towns,
typically incurring commission rates of between 2 and 5%.
The
cost of the tour includes all meals while on the trek and breakfasts
in towns. You will need money to cover: other meals,
snacks and drinks (approximately 30-50% cheaper than Europe),
airport tax ($28 departure tax from Peru), optional excursions
(rafting Cuzco $35, mountain biking Cuzco $35), extra entrance fees,
tips, laundry, handicrafts etc.
Tipping
is a normal part of life in Latin America. Local staff on trekking
and jungle expeditions often look to group members for recognition
of their services. For this tour, we recommend
you allow approx US$45 for tipping.
Flights
We
normally use scheduled flights to Lima with Iberia (via Madrid), or
KLM (via Amsterdam). We can also quote you a land only price if you
intend to travel to Peru independently.
Insurance
You
must have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and
repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities
you will be participating in, including trekking, mountain biking,
climbing and white-water rafting if applicable. Please send us a
copy of your policy as soon as possible if you are not taking our
insurance policy.
Luggage
You
will need to bring a main piece of lockable luggage, which will be
left in the hotel in Cuzco while you are trekking. For your trek you
should re-pack into a kit bag, holdall or rucksack (a soft bag).
This will contain your sleeping bag and camping mat (the camping mat
is provided),
torch, toiletries, changes of clothes, and spare footwear. It
will be transported for you by porters, and must not weigh more than
6 kg. You will also require a
daypack of approximately thirty-litre capacity, for carrying your
camera, water, waterproofs and spare clothes, sun protection, first
aid kit, and other items you may need during the day.
Books
Of
all the guide books, the Footprint Peru Handbook is one of
the best all-round guides, Bradt’s Trekking in Peru and Bolivia
is about the best for descriptions of treks, while the Insight
Guide: Peru provides the best insight into what makes the
country tick (excellent features on cultural issues, current
affairs, Peruvian society etc). For a great Peru-related adventure
story, we recommend the award winning Touching the Void by
Joe Simpson, in which he describes his epic retreat from Mount Siula
Grande in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Hiram
Bingham's The Lost City of the Incas is a first-hand account
of the scientific discovery of Machu Picchu. (Can be bought in Cuzco).
Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming is an academic but
readable account of the events leading to the fall of the Inca
Empire. The best (readable) guide to the Cuzco area, the Inca Trail
& Machu Picchu from a historic, archaeological & tourism
point of view is Peter Frost's Exploring Cuzco. (Can be
bought in Cuzco). Cut
Stones and Crossroads
by Ronald Wright is an excellent travel book with fascinating
archaeological and contemporary insights. Peru, The Ecotravellers
Wildlife Guide by David L Pearson and Les Beletsky is a very
good wildlife guidebook, and especially useful if going into the
Amazon. Famous contemporary Peruvian novelists with highly
recommended work (available in English): Mario Vargas Llosa and
Alfredo Bryce Echenique.
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Outline
Itinerary
The
following itinerary is intended as a working guide only and is
subject to variation as a result of local conditions, weather and
government restrictions.
We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the tour
at any time if necessary.
1000m
= 3281ft. 1km = 0.62 miles
q Day
1: Fly from London to Lima
(air travel clients only). You will be met from your flight at the airport
and taken to the Lima hotel. (1 night hotel)
q Day
2: We take an early flight to the colonial city of Arequipa (2,325m),
which commands impressive views of three nearby volcanoes:
El Misti (5,821m), Chachani (6,075m) and Pichu Pichu (5,542m).
Known as La Ciudad Blanca (The White City), it is built from a
light-coloured pumice called sillar which serves as a testament to
the region’s volcanic origins. Arequipa, a city full of character,
is also an ideal base for a trip to the Colca Canyon. With a year
round spring climate (guaranteed sunshine for 300-plus days of the year),
it is an ideal place to begin acclimatising to altitude.
Most
of the agricultural terracing adorning the surrounding countryside owes
its origins to the influential Huari andTiahuanaco cultures which
predominated between the 7th and 11th centuries AD.
Post-Tiahuanaco, it was a regional culture, the Juli, which dominated the
Chili valley until the 15th century, when the all-conquering
Incas arrived.
The
city of Arequipa was officially founded in 1540 by the newly arrived
Spanish. Originally no more than a simple town of mud and straw, the 17th
and 18th centuries saw the city thrive as a key trading centre on the
silver route between the mines of Potosi and Colonial capital Lima. Then,
in the 19th century, the city benefited from the export of alpaca wool to
Britain. Although its fortunes have dwindled somewhat since, Arequipa
remains the most important commercial city in southern Peru, with a
population of close to a million.
Over
the centuries, Arequipa has periodically been hit by earthquakes. Although
several colonial buildings have been destroyed as a consequence, a number
of churches, convents and palaces have survived intact. Particularly
worthy of note, and definitely worth a visit, is the Santa Catalina
Convent. (1 night hotel).
q Day
3:
We take a two-day trip to the Colca Valley. The drive north takes us
around the base of Chachani and through the Salinas y Aguada Blanca
national reserve, where we have the rare opportunity of spotting grazing
vicuña. This endemic camelid species, wild progenitor of the domesticated
alpaca, is normally extremely elusive.
The
road reaches the journey’s high point (4,800m), before beginning a
dramatic descent to the Colca Valley. To the north, the glaciers of Mismi
(5,596m) can be seen glinting in the sun. The source of the Amazon river
was recently traced to a glacial lake high up on the flanks of this very
peak! The descent ends at the small town of Chivay (3,633m), our
night-stop. (1 night hostel)
q Day
4: We
leave
Chivay
early and head west, following the south side of the Colca valley. Across
to the north, banks of impressive agricultural terracing can be seen.
Although still in use today, the majority dates from pre-Inca times.
Just
a few kilometres west of town, the valley begins to narrow and its sides
to steepen as the Colca Valley turns into the Colca Canyon. The canyon
reaches an average depth of well over a thousand metres from rim to river.
As we follow the road along the canyon’s southern rim, the Ampato
(6,320m) and Sabancaya volcanoes may come into view away to the west.
The
main attraction of the canyon is the Andean Condor, the world’s largest
land bird. It weighs in at some 12 kg, but with a wingspan of over three
metres, achieves amazing efficiency in flight. With barely a beat of its
wings it is capable of soaring to great heights and gliding enormous
distances. Our destination is Tres Cruces, a natural plateau located on a
bend in the road. This vantage point is located close to a nesting site in
the canyon below. Early in the morning, condors are often sighted as they
rise majestically on the day’s first thermals. We return to Arequipa in
the afternoon and check back in to our hotel.
(2 nights hotel).
q Day
5:
Today we have a free day in Arequipa. Not to be missed is the excellent
Santuarios Andinos Museum where you can see ‘Juanita’, the mummy of a
young Inca-period sacrificial victim discovered high up on the Ampato
volcano in 1995. Also, there are mummies and archaeological remains from
other sacred sites. Another must is the Santa Catalina convent.
Founded in 1579 and closed to all visitors until 1970, this is a
fascinating labyrinth of buildings; like a city in miniature. At one
time up to 300 nuns lived here, shut away from the world. A tour
gives an impression of what life must have been like.
q Day
6:
Today we take a
short flight to the market town of Juliaca on the Altiplano. An extensive
plateau occupying vast
stretches of the southern Peruvian and Bolivian highlands, the Altiplano
is carpeted by ichu scrub-grass and grazed by roaming herds of llama and
alpaca. Lake Titicaca (3,838m), the major feature of the Altiplano, is
like a vast ocean set in the middle of the Andes. Its shoreline and
islands support numerous indian communities.
We
drive to the bustling lakeside town of Puno, the main port on the Peruvian
side of the lake, taking in the ruins of Sillustani en route. Set
spectacularly on a peninsula overlooking Lake Umayo, this fascinating
archaeological site features several finely-engineered pre-columbian
funerary towers. (1 night hotel)
q Days
7-8: We
embark on a two-day trip to Taquile Island on Lake Titicaca. Taquile is a
unique and beautiful place. Situated some 3½ hours by boat from Puno, it
is only 4km long by about 1km wide but supports a population of almost
2,000. The island hosts some
small archaeological sites from the Tiahuanaco culture, but it is the
culture of the people living here today, one far removed from our own and
distinct from the rest of Peru, which makes Taquile so interesting. The
island is known for the sophistication of its weaving, practised from a
young age by both males and females. The islanders spin,
knit and weave whenever they have a free moment in the busy agricultural
calendar.
By
staying overnight with the local indians there is plenty of scope for
experiencing at first hand a lifestyle barely changed over the centuries,
as well as exploring the island’s many trails, enjoying the stunning
scenery and perhaps a dramatic sunset. After a morning on the island, we
return to Puno in the afternoon. (1
night village house Taquile, 1 night hotel Puno)
q Day
9:
We travel by bus (or train*)
across the Altiplano to Cuzco. About half way, the road and railway track
climb to a pass at 4,320 metres, and then descend into the broad, fertile
Vilcanota valley. Finally we turn into the Huatanay valley, and ascend the
final few kilometres to Cuzco. (2
nights hotel)
*
Depends on day of the week.
q Day
10
Today we have a half-day guided tour of the city and outlying ruins, with
the rest of the day free.
The
archaeological capital of South America, Cuzco and the surrounding region
contain a wealth of archaeological and cultural treasures unequalled in
the Old World. Cuzco is also a lively and exciting city boasting an
excellent range of restaurants and an active nightlife to suit everybody.
Today,
tourism constitutes an important source of income for the city, but it
remains an important commercial centre for the surrounding farming
communities. Its markets sell a huge variety of highland and jungle
produce.
Cuzco
is an attractive city which uniquely blends Imperial Inca with Spanish
Colonial architecture.
Legend
has it that Cuzco was founded around AD 1100 by the first Sapan Inca
(Emperor) Manco Capac. He was
the son of the Sun god Inti, and had been sent to earth with his
sister-wife Mama Ocllo (the daughter of the Moon), with instructions to
civilise humanity. Their travels took them to the Huatanay valley, where
Manco Capac plunged his vara (staff) into the fertile ground and
founded the capital of the new empire. Archaeological evidence suggests
that, for the first few hundred years, the Quechua (“Inca”) tribe kept
within a short radius of Cuzco with little conquering ambition. Only with
the arrival of the ninth Emperor Pachacutec in 1438, did serious expansion
begin and, very soon, Cuzco had become the centre of a rapidly expanding
empire. Pachacutec also masterminded the design of the imperial capital.
At its heart was Huacaypata, a huge ceremonial plaza surrounded by
sumptuous palaces. The characteristic stonework of those structures is
today still much in evidence in and around the colonial Plaza de Armas.
When
Francisco Pizarro and the Spanish Conquistadores reached Peru, Cuzco was
the thriving capital of a flourishing empire. But a rift within the ruling
family had led to civil war and made conquest relatively easy. The Spanish
were impressed by the grandeur of Cuzco, but spent little time admiring it
before they began looting. From
the time of Pizarro's arrival until 1572, Cuzco witnessed many battles of
native resistance. In 1536, the Spaniards' appointed ruler, Manco Inca,
rebelled and laid siege to the Spanish-controlled city. Against all the
odds, however, the Spanish managed to break out and retake it.
Manco retreated to Vilcabamba, deep in the forested mountains north
of Machu Picchu, and led a resistance which was to continue until 1572
when his descendant, Tupac Amaru, was captured by colonial forces and put
to violent death in Cuzco.
q Days
11-14: We leave Cuzco early and drive to the
village of Chilca, the starting point for our trek. The journey
takes us across the Pampa de Anta, down to the Sacred Valley and on to
Ollantaytambo. This fascinating town retains more Inca architecture
than any other inhabited town, and we set aside some time for exploration
before resuming our journey to Chilca (2,700m). By mid/late morning we
begin our trek.
The
Inca Trail is the best-known trek in Peru. Although it formed only a
small part of the overall network of Inca highways, this 'Royal Road' to
Machu Picchu, reclaimed from the cloud forests less than a hundred years
ago, clearly had important ritual functions and probably served as some
form of sacred pilgrimage route related to the veneration of natural and
celestial phenomena. Many well-preserved and finely constructed
sites along the trail also suggest that access was limited to an elite.
The absence of both the Trail and Machu Picchu from early Spanish
chronicles suggests that its existence was not known about in colonial
times. This would explain how its religious structures escaped the violent
attentions of fanatical Spanish purgers of idolatry.
The
Trail is a paradise for botanists and birdwatchers due to the rapid
succession of ecological and climatic zones that are crossed. The
region's flora includes 60 species of orchid, and the varied bird life
includes hummingbirds and various species of birds of prey.
The
camp sites we use have been selected with a view to minimising contact
with other trekkers and maximising our enjoyment of the trek. For most of
the first day we walk through a temperate environment, camping in the
Cusichaca valley at about 2,850m.
On
the second day of trekking we pass the tiny community of Huayllabamba and
embark on the first major ascent of the trek: a demanding 800-metre ascent
of the Llullucha valley, via cloud forest and puna, to the
Llulluchapampa plateau (3,800m). Here we camp.
The
third day is very beautiful, as well as the longest. We cover the
final 400 metres of ascent to the Warmiwañusca Pass (4,200 m), and
descend to the Pacasmayo valley (3,600m). We climb out of the valley, past
the ruins of Runkurakay, to our second pass (4,000m). We descend
through lush cloud forest on a paved Inca pathway, and visit the
impressive and dramatically located ruins of Sayajmarca. Resuming our
descent through cloud forest, we pass the Conchamarca ruins and continue
to the third pass at Phuyupatamarca, where we camp. The views into
the bottom of the Urubamba gorge 1,700 metres below are spectacular.
On
trek day four we make a dramatic descent along an ancient stairway to the
beautiful sacred sanctuary of Huiñay Huayna (2,700 metres) and continue
to the Inti Punku (Sun Gate). From here we gain our first views of the
stunning Lost City of Machu Picchu spread out below.
We
aim to descend to the site in the afternoon, and enjoy the peaceful scene,
before dropping a further 400 metres by bus to the tropical railtrack town
of Aguas Calientes. Here we spend the night. Tonight you have the
opportunity for a well-deserved soak in the thermal baths. (3 nights camp,
1 night hostel, all meals except final dinner).
q Day
15: Today we have the whole morning to enjoy Machu Picchu. After
a guided tour, there is ample time to explore the extensive site at your
leisure, as well as take the dramatic Inca path up the Huinay Huayna or
Puticusi mountain. In the afternoon we board our train to Cuzco; one of
the world's great railway journeys. (2 nights hotel).
q Day
16: Free day in Cuzco. If you fancy something more energetic
than shopping, you may want to go white water rafting (optional) on the
Urubamba river.
*Note
that every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday there are good handicrafts markets
at Pisac and Chincheros.
q Day
17: Today
we fly down to Lima. There may be some free time in Lima in the
afternoon, during which your tour leader will be able to offer you some
optional activities. Evening flight to London (air travel clients only).
q Day
18: Arrive London.
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