General Information
The ascent of Elbrus is not a technical climb and no advanced mountaineering experience is required. It is a long trek up a snow field requiring fitness, perseverance and the need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice-axes. We aim to ascend the highest of Elbrus' twin-peaks, the West Summit. At 5642m this is Europe's highest summit.

The Caucasus form a chain of high, alpine mountains separating the Republic of Georgia from that of Russia to the North. Just north of the main chain, in Russia, lies Europe's highest summit - the twin-peaked Mount Elbrus. The main chain itself contains many mountains over 5000m. and scores of summits higher than Mont Blanc. In the valleys clear streams tumbling down from the mountain sides mix with the rushing melt waters from the glaciers at the head of the valleys, passing through dramatic scenery, alpine meadows and beautiful forests.

The Baksan Valley leads, over about 40 miles, from the northern foothills to the main chain itself. This is the most important and best-developed valley in the Caucasus, partly because of the mineral wealth located near Tyrnyauz and partly on account of Elbrus at its head and the hundreds of magnificent mountains which comprise it's watershed. Almost at the end of the Baksan Valley lies Terskol - the Chamonix of the Caucasus. This tiny town lies at the foot of Mount Elbrus. It boasts about half a dozen hotels and two ski lift systems. These facilities coupled with the three or four buses which visit it each day from Mineralnye Vody make it the best-developed mountain sport center in the 1000km. length of the Caucasus Mountains - a range that could swallow up the Alps!

Our trip will start with an evening visit to Red Square in Moscow before our flight to Mineralnye Vody on next day, - this is a spa town on the plains north of the Caucasus. From here a 4 hour bus journey takes us to our base hotel in the Baksan Valley. We have 9 days before going onto Elbrus. These days will be spent on two enjoyable camping trips, to build up fitness and acclimatization. These are excursions following beautiful forested valleys, walking through alpine meadows, crossing glaciated mountain passes and climbing some of the easiest summits which provide superb panoramas of the Caucasus Range.

During the first of these trips there is time to practice the use of crampons and ices-axe. Both trips will be porter supported but will involve backpacking with your own personal equipment including your sleeping bag. The luggage you do not need for the trek can be left at the hotel. For the ascent of Elbrus itself we will use a cable car system to take us to the Mir Station, a height of about 3500m. Owing to the fire that burnt down the Priut 11 mountain lodge (the "Refuge of 11") at 4200m, we will stay either at The Garabashi Lodge or at a high camp if the chairlift is working we will take that to 3800m. From the top of the chairlift you may like to use the snowcat to get higher, depending on prevailing conditions. In 2001 they were making a go of rebuilding the Priut hut and we will use it if possible.

Though gentle-angled, the ascent of Elbrus requires the use of crampons and an ice axe, there will be opportunities to practice with these during the first ten days. Very warm wind and waterproof clothing is essential on Elbrus and a good 4-season sleeping bag for the high camps. In the Caucasus, the trek leader and guide is a well-qualified, very experienced mountaineer and leader, a fluent English speaker with expert knowledge of the Caucasus. We employ extra guides on Elbrus. They will have ropes and be in radio contact with Terskol base. A "Western" trek leader accompanies the group, unless the group numbers below 10.

Grade D+
Although no advanced mountaineering experience is required, you should be familiar with the basic use of crampons and ice axes before the trip. This will also help you enjoy the tour more. Personal kit must be carried including your sleeping bag and mat. A limited number of porters can be hired at an extra charge to carry personal equipment where necessary. This is a tough trip. Some of the days are very demanding physically. Some of the walking is on good paths but we trek over several passes, on steep, rugged ground, on glaciers and glacial deposits. We recommend some long walks before your trip and that your boots are well worn-in but not worn out! They should be appropriate for crampon use. The first half of the trip is carefully designed to ensure that all group members have become familiar and at ease with the use crampons and the ice axe and that they have experienced a tough, long uphill day. As a result, our ascent success rate is very good. It must be remembered that Elbrus is an extremely serious mountain in spite of it's technical ease. The guide's decision to turn back should be respected at all times. With a maximum altitude of 5642 metres, acclimatization can be a problem, but our especially designed programme with acclimatization walks, normally gives people enough time to get used to the heights .

Food & Accommodation
All accommodation meals are included in the trip cost.
In Moscow and St Petersburg good quality hotels are used with en-suite shower or bath and WC. However the hotels are not up to Western standards especially that in Moscow. The hotel in the Baksan Valley is very simple but pleasantly situated and friendly. Rooms are generally twins, facilities being shared between two rooms. Accommodation on trek is in double-skinned three-man tents, which are used for two people only - we ask you to assist with pitching your tent. On Elbrus itself we stay in dormitories in a large mountain hut/lodge. It is not heated but is basically warm. Blankets and mattresses are provided but we recommend you take your own sleeping bag and mat. If we stay in the Pirut hut once again, then conditions by Summer 2002 are likely to still be primitive, until it is more fitted out.

Food on trek is prepared by our own cooks from fresh foods supplemented by supplies brought in from Mineralne Vody and St Petersburg. As the variety of foods available in Baksan Valley is rather limited we recommend that you bring with you a small selection of "goodies" - chocolates, nuts etc. which you are particularly fond of. These will be useful especially at times when the altitude might reduce your appetite for main meals or when you need energy for the final summit push. We try to cater for vegetarians but we cannot provide the same standard as expected in the West. We suggest that vegetarians take their own protein supplements if this is likely to cause a problem.

Equipment & Clothing
Mountain weather is variable. In the valleys it is possible for daytime temperatures to rise over 25 degrees.C. Higher up it will be cooler, even in strong sunlight. At night, especially at the high campsites, it can be very cold and you are likely to experience frosts. Although this is generally the drier side of the Caucasus; rain, summer storms and even snowfall on the passes could be encountered at any time. On Elbrus the weather can turn Arctic. Very warm and wind-proof clothes are necessary for the ascent including both inner and outer waterproof gloves/mittens, duvet jacket, fleece and thermals. Double boots would be useful on Elbrus and on the ascent of Gumachi but would not be comfortable for the other walks unless you are already used to wearing them. Stiff, mountain boots suitable for winter mountaineering in Scotland are probably the best compromise. You will also need an ice axe and crampons which fit your boots well; ski sticks or a walking pole are optional extras. We also like you to take a lightweight harness with one Karabiner; you might not need this but it can be useful in bad weather, on the different ice and snow conditions we meet on mountain slopes and glaciers, as well as during the various descent sections. If you are already a hiker or backpacker you will probably have much of the clothing and equipment required. A good three - four season sleeping bag is adequate. We recommend that you consider carefully the items you need to take on the camping sections and try to keep to a 60 litre rucksack. A detailed equipment list will be sent with confirmation of booking.

Flights & Dates
We use BA Scheduled return flights from Heathrow to Moscow and St Petersburg toHeathrow. Scheduled Aeroflot flights from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody and from Mineralnye Vody back to St Petersburg . Normally:

Out bound: Sats BA872Q from London Heathrow: 09:20, Arrive Moscow 1605.

In bound: Sats BA2879S From St. Petersburg 17:20,

Arrive London Gatwick 17.55.

Timings subject to change. Departure dates. June 22, July 6, July 20, Aug17,

Health matters & Documents
An emergency medical kit accompanies the trek and the Russian staff include qualified medical personnel. We nevertheless recommend that you carry your own personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents as well as more general health information is included in your pre-departure information. No special inoculations are required for entry into Russia but we recommend that your tetanus inoculations are up to date and that you consult your doctor for other cover such as typhoid.

A visa is required and will be applied for on a group basis The cost currently is £45, but may change during 2002. For this we require your passport and application form five weeks before departure for about 3 weeks; if this is a problem we will have to discuss the situation with you. Full details of the procedures involved will be included in the pre-departure booklet; you can contact us for details as well.

Books & Maps
There are still very few books on travel in post-Soviet Russia and the Republics. The following publications titles may be found useful.

Classic Climbs in the Caucasus, published by Diadem, describes a selection of ascents including that of Elbrus and of Gumachi. Illustrated.

Caucasus Central from Elbrus to Kazbek map/guide of the main Caucasus Range. £8.95.

Mount Elbrus Region: map and guidebook to the Baksan Valley region including descriptions of walks and the ascent of Elbrus. £12.95.

Both above map/guides are available from EWP or from West Col Productions.

USSR Travel Survival Kit, published by Lonely Planet, good value. This has a good section on the Caucasus including the Baksan and Elbrus regions. £13.95.

The Travel Bookshop, provides a mail order service. 13 Blenheim Cr., London, W11 2EE. Tel. 071 229 5260

Please Note….
That in light of the recent war in Chechynia and a car bomb in Mineralnye Vody, the Foreign Office in 2001 issued the usual carte blanche warning about travelling to the Caucasus per se. We know of no, nor has there been any trouble in the area in which we travel and we closely monitor the situation

This tour is run as a joint venture between Sherpa and EWP. We organize more Elbrus expeditions than any other European tour operator!

Outline Itinerary
The following itinerary is intended as a working guide only and it is subject to variation as a result of local conditions, weather and governmental restrictions. We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary. Airline schedules are subject to change, both international and domestic, and it may be necessary to vary our itinerary to adapt to these changes. Many of the cautions we customarily issue with our treks in the Third World equally apply to the former Soviet Union. Time: GMT +3.

Day 1: Fly BA from London, Heathrow to Moscow. You will be met and taken on a short city tour to see the Red Square. before having supper. Night in hotel.

Day 2: Mid-morning flight to Mineralnye Vody, on the plains north of the Caucasus. From here we have a 4 hour drive by private bus to the hotel in the Baksan Valley, near Elbrus.

Day 3: Our trek starts with a pleasant walk up the Adyl-su valley to the "Green Hotel", an alpine meadow campsite at 2450m. It is an ideal place to tone up our muscles for the days ahead.

Day 4: From the campsite we walk up to the Jankuat Glacier then ascend Gumachi, 3805m. This simple mountaineering trip up a fine summit with a mixture of terrain and provides good practice with ice axe and crampons. Return to camp.

Day 5: After breakfast we descend the Adyl-su valley and have lunch enroute. We return to the hotel for the night.

Day 6: In the morning we drive to Vierhny Baksan. From here we walk up through woods then open mountain slopes to Syltran Lake at 2950m., one of the largest lakes in the Caucasus. Camp. This is a long, demanding day, excellent training for the long pull up Elbrus!

Day 7: We continue up to cross the Syltran Pass, 3300m. with a possible 30 min side trip to a nearby small summit and viewpoint. We descend to by the Mukal Valley and then walk up by the Mkiara Valley to camp at 3200m.

Day 8: Our trek continues to cross the glaciated Irik Pass, 3750m. to a campsite in the forest lower down in the beautiful Irik valley. Camp.

Day 9: Finishing our descent of the Irik valley we return to the hotel. The afternoon is free to relax, have a sauna or wander into Terskol.

Day 10: We take the cable car up to Mir Station, from where a 2 hour walk gets us to the remains of the "Refuge of the 11" - Priut 11 .In Summer 1998.someone overdid the camp pasta and then, some how overdid the Priut hut as well! There were a team of climbers in the Pruit, their cooker went out of control; so someone picked up a pan of water to throw over it to dowse the flames... only it wasn't exactly water, it was petrol. The structure has burnt down and now they are making a start at rebuilding it. This should not hamper our tour. We will endeavour to stay in the new structure, but if for reasons of construction we cannot, it will mean starting lower down at the Garabashi Lodge or having a high camp near to the remains of the hut. The time spent either hutting, camping or staying at the Garabashy Lodge will be determined by such factors as the weather and by the progress of the group as well. Hopefully the chairlift will be working to take us from the Mir Station to approx 3800m. From here a snowcat (tracked vehicle) is often available to take you higher for a small charge. The charge depends upon the number of people using the snowcat (max 10).

Day 11: Acclimatisation walk to Pastuchova rocks at 4800m. This is an important preparation day physically at altitude. Return to Pirut Hut, or high Camp or Garabashi.

Day 12: We begin in the small hours of the morning for the ascent to the highest of Elbrus' twin peaks - the West Summit. You carry your day pack with the day's requirements. We return to spend the night camping either in the vicinity of the hut or return to the Garabashi Lodge.

Day 13: Return to hotel. Relax and perhaps enjoy one of the fine walks from the hotel.

Day 14: Drive to Mineralnye Vody, fly to St Petersburg; dinner and night at hotel in the city centre.

Day 15: After breakfast we check out of the hotel and have a morning city tour. After lunch there will be free time to sightsee or shop before dinner and the flight back to London. What we do today however will be dictated by flight times.

 

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