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 Iceland: Torfajokull

Tour code: BTJ
Revised:
December 2007

The Torfajokull region of southern Iceland is an uninhabited area containing a wide variety of terrain and some of the finest in Iceland. Once the trek has started we shall be in terrain free from the effects of man's presence. We shall be entirely dependent on our own resources and remote from services of any kind. The Torfajokull area is the most powerful thermal region in Iceland, named after a small ice cap. Views from Torfajokull itself cover the whole of the south and central interior and in good weather nine separate icecaps. Between Fljotsdalur and Hvanngil there are stupendous views of the Markafljot gorge. There will be several days when we shall not see another soul. It should be emphasized that the first departure of each year is a more strenuous trek for those with a penchant for snow. The rewards for the greater effort required lie in being probably the first to cross the region in that year. The itinerary for this trek differs from the standard eastbound itinerary.

Grade

The most experienced hillwalker will find much to stimulate and challenge them on this trek.  Due to the remoteness of the terrain no vehicle support is possible. Some equipment will therefore have to be divided amongst the group and carried in rucksacks. Treks from May to early July will encounter snow underfoot to varying degrees. Novices will not be accepted on the May departure, because of the higher incidence of snow and more challenging weather at this time of year. This can be a physically demanding tour, so clients should be prepared before departure to ensure they make the most of their Iceland experience. Make sure that you have gear that you are comfortable with!

This trek affords many opportunities to see and walk through an amazing and varied landscape and the rewards soon outweigh the hardships (i.e. the basic huts and the thought of carrying your own baggage!) on this fantastic trip.

Daily distances walked should not exceed 20km. However, clients should be able to cover twice this distance in emergency conditions. The bonus here is that at this time of year it is light all the time (except on the August departure).


Equipment & Clothing

If you regularly walk in the hills you should already have much of the equipment and clothing required. Iceland, despite its name is not a land of perpetual frost!

In July shorts can be worn. Warm and windproof clothing should be brought, gaiters will be valuable. A three-season sleeping bag and a foam insulation mat will be needed. A detailed list of recommended clothing and personal equipment will be sent with confirmation of reservation.


Food & Accommodation

All meals on trek are included in the cost. Accommodation on the three nights in Reykjavik is hostel style, and you will need your sleeping bag; you have to pay for all meals individually in Reykjavik. Reykjavik is expensive; in contrast there are no opportunities to spend any money whilst on trek. To eat out in a proper restaurant in Reykjavik costs, at a minimum, around fifteen pounds. This is a minimum, you may well want to spend more. It is cheaper than this if you just want to snack on a takeaway type meal. There are burger bars and inns that serve local dishes such as pickled herring and vegetables for considerably less. Be warned that a round of drinks can leave your wallet choking!

Huts vary in quality from very, very basic, made of wood, iron, turf and stone, and some with dirt floors, through basic - a bit more iron, concrete and stone and maybe a water pipe for good measure- to a couple of rather good quality huts  (depending on which itinerary you choose). Accommodation in Reykjavik is in a very nice dormitory-style pension with a kitchen area that you can use so maybe bring some tea, packet soup or noodles for a warming snack while you are there. It may also be worth considering bringing a hip flask of your favourite tipple. Although strictly contrary to good mountain practice, it will be a welcome friend in the evening time. At the moment Strutslaug hut has not had permission for a rebuild since an avalanche hit it and you will have to camp outside at this site only.

Food is of a good standard and consists largely of high-energy foods and dehydrated meals that soon spring to life when nurtured by Icelandic water (and a bit of stirring) over the Primus!

There will not be a specific vegetarian departure this year. However, we are sympathetic to client's requirements and do our best to cater for vegetarians if we are notified at the time of booking. As food is pre-stocked in the huts, we ask clients to let us know well in advance of their needs and to be flexible wherever possible concerning food. If on a strict diet, vegetarians should bring some vegetarian food that does not need much preparation.


How the Trek is Organised

The trek penetrates deep into uninhabited country and uses simple huts and pre-dumped food stocks, augmented by food carried by group members. Group members must be able and willing to take a full part in jobs necessary on this kind of expedition: loads of up to 20kg (44lb), 15 kg (33lb) for women, will sometimes have to be carried. Team spirit is an essential part of a Torfajokull trek. Practicality and adaptability are the keys to comfort whilst crossing the Torfajokull region on foot.


B
ooks & Maps

It is suggested that no books are brought on the trek. Weight is at a premium whilst backpacking. As background reading before departure the following is a useful source of information on Iceland in general.

‘Classic Walks in Europe’, edited by Walt Unsworth, which is out of print at the moment, but you will probably find a copy in the library.

Thorsmork/Landmannalaugar 1:100,000 map £8 with the addition of the 1:100,000 sheet 67 for tours starting at Sveinstindur £7.

A more detailed list of books/maps will be sent to you within your pre-departure information, which is sent with confirmation of booking.

N.B: It is possible to leave pre-packed clean clothes, etc, with the organisers at the beginning of the trip, to be picked up at the end. This is usually more suitable than leaving packages at Reykjavik accommodation.


Included

Return flight by ‘Icelandair’ from Heathrow to Keflavik (air travel clients only), transfer to and from Reykjavik.  All food on trek, but breakfasts only in Reykjavik. The Icelandic government on passengers leaving Keflavik by air levies an “international departure tax”; it is included in quoted tour charges. No visa is required for citizens of the EC, USA, Canada or Australia.


Important

Please note that we work with Mr Dick Phillips on all the departures that we advertise. He has been operating tours to Iceland for over 40 years now and has a wealth of knowledge of this area. He also stocks maps and books on Iceland.

 

Escorted Departure Dates

Group Size: Min 4, max 15 plus trek leader

*BTJ18 Sun 18 May - Sun 1 June

*BTJ14 Sat 14 June - Sat 28 June

BTJ19 Sat 19 July - Sat 2 August

BTJ09 Sat 9 August - Sat 23 August

 


Outline Itinerary

Flights from Heathrow generally fly out at around 21:00. So if you are flying from Heathrow, you will not arrive at the hostel before midnight, but it will be open.

There follows two itineraries: Westbound and Eastbound. For 2008, departures from UK on 18/05/08 Eastbound (via Landmannalaugar), and 14/06/08 Eastbound via Strutslaug.

Departures on 19/07/08 and on 09/08/08 are Westbound (via Sveinstindur).

Clients will normally have their free day in Reykjavik at the end of the trip. This may possibly be changed around to the beginning in order to accommodate prevailing conditions.

Please note that variations to these itineraries may occur due to roads being impassable and sometimes through substitution of chartered for scheduled transport. Other circumstances may cause minor changes. Also, note the first tour of the season normally has a slightly different itinerary to that below, missing out Strutslaug.


Eastbound Itinerary

q       Day 1: Fly to Keflavik, transfer to your accommodation in Reykjavik.

q       Day 2: Assemble; catch 0830 bus to Hvolsvollur (108 km). If the weather is good you should see the dormant volcano of Hekla, which is snow- capped and looks a bit like Mt. Fuji. Thence you will be taken by private transport to Fljotsdalur hostel (27km). Lunch: afternoon free to browse around. The ice caps of Myrdalsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull are visible. Down the valley the land is flat out to the sea, 31km away. Look out for the horny Icelandic sheep!

q       Day 3: Walk to Einhyrningur Hut (15km), crossing River Gilsa en route, the first chance that you have to get your feet wet. When you get to the hut you may consider scaling Einhyrningur hill. It is not as big as it looks and from the top, if it is clear, you may see Laufafell, which is as big as it looks!

q       Day 4: Walk past the Markarfljot Gorge and Lifrarfjoll to the small Krokur hut, crossing River Hvitmaga. (14km). A positively austere setting with the sound of the rivers for company.

q       Day 5: Walk to the hut north of Laufafell (19km). You will walk over cols and down across lavafields to this very remote area, where you are surrounded on three sides by rivers, which change their dynamics between the days and the night.

q       Day 6: Free day at Laufafell: If conditions are good, you may be able to climb Laufafell itself, with tremendous views over the area.

q       Day 7: Walk (over high rhyolite if conditions permit) to Hvanngil, crossing River Markarfljot and several minor rivers. A strenuous day. (20km)

q       Day 8: Walk to Strutslaug, crossing several minor rivers. (16km). Camp.

q       Days 9 & 10: Are based at Strutslaug and involve day walks in the high rhyolite to Torfajokull or by Holmsarlon.

q       Day 11: Walk to Alftavatn, crossing River Sydri-Ofaera. (15 km)

q       Day 12: Is based at Alftavatn, walking in Eldgja to Ofaerufoss and back. (20km) Eldgja is an example of a volcanic fissure which split open some centuries ago. When you get to Ofaerufoss you will find an amazing double level waterfall a bit like a giant High Force in the Pennines. There used to be a rock bridge over the falls, but this collapsed in 1993.

q       Day 13:  Drive back to Reykjavik in a chartered bus, arriving 5 pm.

q       Day 14: Free in Reykjavik.

q       Day 15: Transfer to Keflavik airport, fly home.


Westbound Itinerary

q       Day 1: Fly to Keflavik, transfer to your accommodation in Reykjavik.

q       Day 2: Depart in chartered bus to road head under Sveinstindur. Overnight in small hut 1km beyond road head. (238km road journey).

q       Day 3: Based by Sveinstindur, to allow ascent of mountain for views over Langisjor, Laki and Vatnajokull.

q       Day 4: Walk via Rotagil to Skaelingar hut. (15km)

q       Day 5: Walk over shoulder of Gjatindur: ascend Gjatindur for view down Eldgja valley, thence to Ofaerufoss, and on to Alftavatn. (16km). Eldgja is an example of a volcanic fissure which split open some centuries ago. When you get to Ofaerufoss you will find an amazing double level waterfall a bit like a giant High Force. There used to be a rock bridge over the falls, but this collapsed in 1993.

q       Day 6: Walk to Strutslaug, crossing River Sydri-Ofaera. (14km). Camp.

q       Days 7 & 8: are based at Strutslaug, walking in the high rhyolite to the edge of the Torfajokull ice cap or by Holmsarlon. Great Mountain walking.

q       Day 9: Walk to Hvanngil, crossing several minor rivers. (15km).

q       Day 10: Walk to Einhyrningur hut, crossing River Blafjallakvisl and passing Markarfljot Gorge. This is the furthest inland that the sea birds penetrate to roost and can be interesting at certain times of the year. At certain places the view from the gorge down to the river is spectacular and the view is for many miles and you can hear it rumbling away to the sea. (19km).

q       Day 11: Walk to Fljotsdalur Hostal, crossing River Gilsa. This is the last chance to get your feet wet, so make the most of it! (15km).

q       Day 12: Free day based at Fljotsdalur. A beautiful location overlooking the valley of the Markarfljot and the Eyjafjallajokull Ice caps. You will see Icelandic sheep and it is a good spot for bird watching too. The hostel has an extensive library all about Iceland. Looking down the valley you can imagine you can see the sea! This is the first time that you will have seen any trees for almost a couple of weeks! Fljotsdalur is a traditional turf covered hostel and there is a flush toilet inside.

q       Day 13: Depart by scheduled bus for Reykjavik (135km).  Arrive 11am.

q       Day 14: Free day in Reykjavik. Take a walk about in Europe's most unusual capital city; a place of corrugated iron-clad cottages and bungalows with triple glazing, highly fashionable and highly expensive shopping streets, dockyards and botanical gardens. Omnipotent is the 'feel' of the sea, whether it is the cry of the seagulls and Arctic Terns, or the smell of weed, fish and salt. The fine new church in the capital pierces the sky like a huge icicle. It is puritanical white within and without. You could t hire a car and travel to some local hot springs for a swim or to visit the sights. Or perhaps hire bikes and get blown around town and into the countryside!

q       Day 15: Transfer to Keflavik airport, fly home.

   
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