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Walker’s Britain: Coast to Coast (18 days) - Across England on Wainwright's Walk

Tourcode: WCC
Revised: November 201
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As a result of popular demand, for people with more time, or who want to break up some of the longer days of the original two week tour, we have given you the option to increase Wainwright’s masterpiece to 18 days! 

This is the quintessential English hill walking and long distance trail experience: 190 plus miles traversing three national parks and a lot of interesting landscapes, old towns and of course public houses in between! It is amazing to think that this most famous of routes, totally eclipsing the Pennine Way in terms of popularity and variety, is still not classified as a National Trail!  

Starting at the tiny Cumbrian seaside resort of St. Bees on the Irish Sea we head east, with the wind, into the Lake district to pass by some of its most famous lakes and cross some important passes, with options to extend days (with ascents of peaks such as Helvellyn). 

Then it is on into the Yorkshire Dales and over the mystical Nine Standards Rig, before following the beautiful River Swale for a couple of days into the old market town of Richmond. There follows a marathon section to link up with the North York Moors National Park from where we roller coaster around to the North Sea Coast to make a triumphant entrance into Robins Hoods Bay where a celebratory pint, bottle of Champagne or ice cream whilst standing in the sea is in order. Along the way you will be amazed at the variety of the dry stone walls, the charming little villages and just how much that you get to eat for a full English cooked breakfast! There are cozy small hotels, guesthouses and pubs to stay at on this tour and these, as well as the rich variety of the people that you meet enroute, reflect something of the great diversity of England.

 

General Information

Duration of tour: 18 days (17 nights)

Season:  31 March to mid October.

Starting point: St Bees                

End of tour: Robin Hood’s Bay

Breakfast: in the UK will generally consist of sausage, bacon, eggs etc, cereals and fruit will also be available. It is important for you to tell us if you have any dietary requirements when you book your holiday so that we can inform everyone that you are staying with.

Baths: it is not normal for your room to have a bath, the main reason being that it takes up a lot of space, some hotels/guesthouses may have a separate room in the house where a bath is available to guests, but in the main it is showers.

Single Supplements: are payable on most of our tours. The single supplement guarantees the privacy of your own room, however, rooms can at times be small and in some places may not enjoy the same facilities as double/twin rooms.

Luggage: When staying in hotels, sometimes your luggage will have been taken to you room awaiting your arrival. However don’t be surprised if your luggage is waiting for you to take it up to your room.

Route Notes: Please note that 1 set of route notes per room booked is included in the cost of the holiday. If you require more sets of notes then there is a charge of £25 per set ordered. Route notes are not issued to clients joining an escorted departure.

Accommodation: The hotels described are our usual accommodation, however if these are not available then alternatives are used.


Getting to the Start

Convenient Major city and international airport: Manchester Airport 4-5 hours by rail via Carlisle.

Outward journey from London: Train from London Euston to Carlisle. Then local train from Carlisle to St Bees (1 hour 15 mins). Then short walk from station to hotel.

Inward journey to London at end of tour: Bus/taxi from Robin Hood’s Bay to Scarborough. Then train from Scarborough to London. National Rail website is www.nationalrail.co.uk if you want to look at the journey involved.


Grading

Moderate to Challenging. Some long days and steep climbs and descents. Generally however undulating. Mixed weather can be expected. We would not recommend the route for first time walkers. Note that often the trails in the Lake District especially are steep and rocky at times. 


Waymarking

Despite its justifiable popularity, this is not a National Trail. Waymarking is variable or erratic and you will have to use map interpretation for much of the time, especially at times of low visibility, so you should be accustomed to using map and compass.


Your Accommodation

Note that the sheer popularity of this tour may mean that we cannot get you into the accommodations described below for the dates of your tour. We will endeavor to get you into a similar standard of accommodation nearby, but please appreciate that there is limited accommodations. Also, although we aim to get you into accommodations with ensuite rooms this is not always possible at a couple of places on your tour you may be sharing bathrooms, especially if you are booking a single room. 

q       Night 1 St Bees: A 17th century sandstone barn situated on the main street in the coastal village of St. Bees! The barn was initially converted in the 1980's into a large guesthouse and self-contained flats, being recently refurbished throughout. All rooms have a colour television and tea & coffee facilities.

q       Night 2 Ennerdale: Overnight at a friendly, family owned hotel, of three crown standard. Enjoy a home cooked meal of local produce including fish and game in season. A traditional feel is retained by the hotel, with its open fire, and the fully licensed bar serves a range of beverages including locally produced ale. There is limited accommodation here so we also use the nearby village of Rwohr who offer a pick/drop off service which is free of charge. 

q       Night 3 Borrowdale: Tonight we stay in a small and long established guesthouse. It is set in a beautiful small hamlet town. A popular peaceful retreat for former clients. Ensuite facilities are not available here as it is a listed building that changes cannot be made to.

q       Night 4 Grasmere: Our small family run guesthouse is conveniently placed in the center of this delightful village. Grasmere is one of Lakeland’s most celebrated villages, and there is time either this afternoon or tomorrow morning to look around and visit the poet Wordsworth's home at Dove Cottage.

q       Night 5 Patterdale: Tonight’s accommodation is popular with visitors and local people alike since the early 1800’s. Many a tale could be told of events that have taken place in all its lifetime, including the time when Wordsworth was in our very bar as news arrived that Nelson had died at Trafalgar.  This is a listed building so the rooms are small, to change this would spoil the character of this wonderful coaching inn.

q       Night 6 Bampton Grange: This is a traditional country inn, in whitewashed stone with great atmosphere and a sense of history about it.

q       Night 7 Orton: We use a number of guesthouses in this small village. With its attractive architecture, chocolate factory and tea shops.

q       Night 8 Kirkby Stephen: This accommodation has many unusual features, and is of an exceptionally high standard. It is a Grade II listed Georgian town house full of character, with a friendly relaxed atmosphere.

q       Night 9 Keld: Accommodation in Keld is at a medium sized guesthouse, offering a gateway to the Pennines "The Backbone of England".  Traditional Yorkshire fayre is served in an attractively decorated dining room, and there are tea and coffee making facilities in all rooms.

q       Night 10 Reeth: Formed from a terrace of traditional Cl6th miners' cottages, a peaceful and comfortable hotel with courtyard and garden, renowned for its cuisine.

q       Night 11 Richmond: The extremely picturesque North Yorkshire town of Richmond, with its cobbled market square and Norman castle, is an ever-popular destination for visitors.  Our accommodation is in a small, very comfortable, guest house within easy reach of all the sights in Richmond.

q       Night 12 Danby Wiske: This popular B&B is in the centre of the village.

q       Night 13 Osmotherly: Tonight's accommodation is set in an extremely picturesque village on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors.  All rooms are ensuite and have tea and coffee making facilities.

q       Night 14 Chop Gate: We use a number of guesthouses in this remote area.

q       Night 15 Blakey: We stay at the Lion Hotel in this bleak moorland location. This pub hotel has been a refuge from the elements for 400 years or so, and very cosy it is to! Normally there are a large number of species of Real Ale and great dining in either the bar or the restaurant.

q       Night 16 Egton Bridge or Grosmont: We use a variety of  accommodation in either of these villages.

q       Night 17 Robin Hoods Bay: Our final night is spent in an elegantly refurbished Victorian guesthouse with many original features. This is a popular seaside location so one of many similar B&Bs may be used.


Included

Bed  & Breakfast throughout. Ensuite facilities where available. Luggage transfers from Inn to Inn. Full route notes and map package.

Outline Itinerary

q       Day 1  St Bees: Travel to starting point on the edge of the Irish Sea with views across to the Isle of Man. You should have time to visit the Abbey church, which has features on the local history and has a display on a mummified knight that was discovered in a lead coffin from the graveyard. If you have an extra night here, you can follow the coastal path or quiet inland roads to the attractive town of Whitehaven, with its marina and great museum. It is famous in the annals of the US navy as the site of an elaborate raid on the British mainland by one John Paul Jones during the American War of Independence.

q       Day 2  St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge: Climb from the beach taking a footpath along red sandstone coastal cliffs of St Bees Head with England’s only breeding colony of Black Guillimots, then inland over hilly ground to the edge of the Lake District National Park. Dent Hill is the first real fell that we cross and will give you some indication as to whether you are fit enough for the pursuivant days! Although short, there follows possibly the steepest descent of the whole tour down to Nanny catch Gate and beck a delightful stroll along which brings us to the final descent to leafy Ennerdale Bridge. (14.5 miles / 23.5km, 6 hours). The day’s total ascent 780 metres / descent 665m).

q       Day 3  Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale: A quiet and scenic footpath along the shore of Ennerdale Water, with a bit of a easy scramble under Angler’s Crag at Robin Hood’s Seat. A long walk on a forest track then continues to Black Sail Hut, which is the smallest Youth hostel and originally a shepherd’s hut. A steep climb follows up the Lowther Beck before traversing some of the Lake land fells, perhaps with views down to Buttermere. Finally we reach the ‘drum house’ which marks the descent path to the Honister slate mine workings with its useful cafe to Borrowdale; perhaps the most delightful valley in the Lakes with its crags and broadleaved trees. This is a delightful ensemble of hamlets, Seatoller (the wettest place in England), Longthwaite, Rossthwaite and Stonethwaite. Delightful riverside paths connect the places and their pubs, together if you have sufficient energy left of an evening. You might be interested to know that ‘thwaite’ is old Norse for paddock. (16 5 miles / 26.5 km, 7 hours). The day’s total ascent 765m / descent 785m).

q       Day 4  Borrowdale to Grasmere: Classic Lakeland scenery over Greenup Edge to Easedale and Grasmere Hopefully you will have enough time to visit the Wordsworth Museum at Dove Cottage, William Wordsworth’s grave at the church and the famous Ginger bread shop! (8.5 miles / 13.5 km, 5 hours. Via Helm Crag – recommended). The day’s total ascent 750m / descent 760 via Helm Crag).lassic Lakeland scenery over Greenup Edge to Easedale and Grasmere (10 miles 6 hours. The day's total ascent 750m/descent 760m via Helm Crag).

q       Day 5 Grasmere to Patterdale: Over Grisedale Pass (2000 ft) and around the small mountain lake of Grisedale Tarn to Patterdale In good weather if you are reasonably strong, the best option is to take the route up St. Sunday Crag, for some exceptional views down across Ullswater as you descend to Patterdale, possibly the most breathtaking of the trip (7.5 miles / 12 km, 5 hours (standard route). Add 2 miles and 2 hours if include detour via Summit of Helvellyn. Add 1 ½ hours for detour of St. Sunday Crag. The day’s total ascent: 900m / descent 805m via the recommended route over St. Sunday Crag).

q       Day 6 Patterdale to Bampton: Some would say this was the most difficult stage especially in bad weather when you do need to be ready with map and compass. The days starts with a steep climb up past pretty Angle Tarn, and then up and onwards to a critical cairn where you turn off the route to High Street to go up and over Kidsty Pike (2560 feet, the highest point on the whole route) and then descend steeply to walk along Haweswater, a huge body of water conceived in 1929 to supply Manchester with drinking water, drowning a couple of villages in the process. At the end of Haweswater, at Burnbanks we leave the original Wainwright route to complete the final mile and a half to Bampton Grange (14miles / 22.5 km, 6 hours).

q       Day 7  Bampton Grange to Orton: Purists may want to return to Burnbanks to continue the original route, but you can rejoin it a couple of miles down the country road from Bampton near Rosgil. You then undulate through fields to Shap Abbey, the most easterly point of the Lake District National Park. This was the last Abbey to be founded in England in 1199 and the last to be destroyed in 1540. It nevertheless is a pretty place to pause with some new interpretation signs. After this continue into Shap, the old granite mining town with several pubs and shops. There follows a hilly section across Limestone Moors with limestone pavements in places strewn with ‘erratic’ boulders moved there by glaciers. Finally we drop into the gentler climes around Orton, a quaint picturesque village with Kennedy’s Chocolate factory to lead you into temptation, but yes, you have earnt it! (12 miles /19.5 km, 5 hours).

q       Day 8  Orton to Kirkby Stephen: A bridging day between Cumbria and The Yorkshire Dales. Mainly farmland walking with a section of moors around Sunbiggin Tarn, which is an important site for birds. A steep descent to the Scandal Beck at Smardale Bridge makes for a nice lunch stop. Then ascend over Smardale Fell for the pretty descent into Kirkby Stephens and attractive market town, with St. Hedda’s Church containing the 8th Century Loki stone relating to Norse mythology. (11 miles / 18 km, 5 hours).

q       Day 9  Kirkby Stephen to Keld or onto Thwaite: Climb out of town to the cairns of Nine Standards Rigg (2170 feet) with its array of obelisks. This is an ancient possibly a boundary feature that no one has any real knowledge of. It marks the Watershed of England. Next we cross squelchy moors down to Keld in Swaledale If it is a wet and cold day you might relish a scone a tea made on the farm at Ravenseat, where they breed prime rams. The moors then become increasingly gentler as you walk into Keld with its many waterfalls and old stone barns. (14.5 miles / 24 km, 6 hours to Keld, Thwaite is an additional 3 miles).

q       Day 10  Keld to Reeth: Wild moorland with long-abandoned lead mines, a magnet for the industrial archaeologist (12.5 miles / 20 km, 5 hours). There is also a pretty lower alternative route via Swaledale if you have bad weather or even if you don’t! There is a really nice pub in Gunnerside on this lower option. (11.5 miles / 18.5 km, 5 hours). We end up in Reeth an attractive Green Village which flourished at the height of the mining age and today does well out of tourism, hence a collection of pubs and tea shops.

q       Day 11  Reeth to Richmond: A morning walk through pretty Swaledale lined with limestone crags on either side, allowing time in Richmond for shopping (note most shops closed Sunday) and sightseeing in Richmond whose Norman Keep towers above the Swale on one side and the ancient cobbled market square on the other. You can also follow the swale to Town Falls which are quite impressive when the river is  in spate. (12.5 miles / 20 km, 5 hours).

q       Day 12 Richmond to Danby Wiske: A gentle rural day, walking out from Richmond beside the River Swale and across the fields to Catterick Race Course, then threading our way to Brompton on Swale, an ideal lunch stop in the church yard before trundling along beside tiny streams and quiet country roads reaching the village of Danby Wiske with its Green and sole pub(14 miles / 22.5 km, 5hrs).

q       Day 13 Danby Wiske to Osmotherley: Today is primarily a road walk although there are cross country sections. The two hills are towards the end, a short climb to (what was) East Harlsey Castle, and then with the North York Moors  pressing ever closer we have to carefully cross the main A19 road to take a lovely woodland footpath up to Osmotherley. On the way one can visit Mount Grace Priory (built 1398) this is a ruin but there has been restoration work and there are remaining duck ponds and drainage features. Osmotherley is a quaint hill village with 3 pubs to choose from, and Britain’s oldest functioning Methodist Church 1754. John Wesley came to preach here (10 miles / 16 km, 3.5 hours).

q       Day 14 Osmotherley to Clay Bank Top or Chop Gate: This is a roller coaster walk. A steep stretch from Osmotherley introduces us to the North York Moors, sandy heather clad hills with areas of forest. After coming off Scarth Wood Moor, there is a long ascent up Live Moor and Carlton Bank (408 m) before descending to Lord Stones Café, almost hidden in an off road embankment, ready for coffee time. There then follows the succession of Cringle Moor, Broughton Bank and White Hill all at or over 400 metres. You loose and then re ascend 100-200m between each one. White Hill has an area of sandstone boulders called The Wainstones that you thread through on the way up. Great views in clear weather, Roseberry topping, Vale of Mowbray and back to the Pennines.  You come off the ridge at Clay Bank Top and descend to various accommodations with no real local centre. (11 or 13 miles / 18 or 21 km, 5-6 hours).

q       Day 15 Clay Bank Top or Chop Gate to Blakey: Today the walk follows a moorland ridge up over Round Hill (454m) and the track maintains its height as it follows the line of the old dismantled Rosedale railway line. The moor is bleak in bad weather punctured in places by standing stones some marked with inscriptions. There are enticing views at times into the fertile upper valleys of Farn and Esk dales, but especially when it is misty, wet and cold, the arrival at the ancient Lion Inn at Blakey is a great relief.  (7 or 9 miles / 11 or 11.5 km, 4.5 hrs).

q       Day 16 Blakey to Egton Bridge: After a bit of a road perambulation past a white cross called Fat Betty, there follows an easy undulating descent down to beautiful wooded Eskdale. You also get some views opening up to the sea. The latter part of today's walk follows a pretty path through the woodlands on the banks of the River Esk, where we come across the ‘Beggars Bridge’ a parabolic stone structure that has a story of love lost and love refound! Egton Bridge features a church with relics of the Catholic Martyr, Oliver Postgate. A really pretty setting, the river is famous for fly fishing and has some interesting stepping stones, which enables you to hop (or wobble) between the two pubs faster than using the road. (10 miles / 16 km, 4 hours).

q       Day 17 Egton Bridge to Robin Hoods Bay: Following a delightful private road to Grosmont, you might get there in time to see a steam engine pull out for Pickering. There then follows a very steep pull up across heather moors with views down to Whitby and its Abbey. But the sea and journey’s end is still tantalizingly far as the route abruptly changes course to visit the May Beck valley with its Falling Foss waterfall. A last area of high moor brings us to the coast, where the last 3 miles are spent on the coastal cliff path to Robin Hood's Bay, which appears almost by surprise as you near it. This is a village of red roofed houses clustered around its harbour on the North Sea coast marking the end of this 190 odd-mile crossing of England. Normally a drink at the Bay Hotel follows a paddle in the sea (both optional activities) (16 miles / 25.7 km, 7 hours. The day’s total ascent 775m / descent 770m.)

q       Day 18: End of tour. Buses can take you on to Whitby Bay or Scarborough, from where trains can be taken via York, Whitby is well recommended for an extra day or two and it is possible to walk there from Robin Hoods Bay via the Cleveland way or Cycle Path.

PLEASE NOTE: It is generally normal practice when staying in hotels that you check-in on or after 2pm and checkout by 10am the following morning. Guesthouses/bed & breakfast establishments are normally check-in on or after 4pm and checkout by 10am.

   
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